1Joachim1

yes, i used to use it and works nice.. but bear in mind, it's still an annoyance. it doesn't allow you to play multiplayer with friends if you have it (even if both parts have it because as far as i remember it is required to be stored in the mods folder and the game used to be unable to resolve which mod it is due to the format and type if file) and it updates the mods automatically, yes, but of course only if the mods are updated themselves, which still it makes it so you have to wait until everyone is up to date... that includes this program itself.

i personally HATE that. i install a "mega mod" and completely ignore the parts that i don't like or don't plan to use, but having to download 5 similar thousand mods to add the specific mechanics that i want... no. it just floods the database, updating them becomes a hell of a nightmare for the user. for example "fauna of the stone age" is cluttering and monopolizing the main db page and i almost didn't notice the for golden combs mod there. just make a single mod and allow me to configure it lol, there's even an in-game config tool mod already so no excuses!

i see and simultaneously don't see the issue with the "spawn block" (let's call it "Nest" for the sake of it) beeing cheesable... for one side i get that you can just fence it and have a plentiful harvest, but in real life nobody is fighting bears with their fists and the ones who do they show up in the news.. my suggestion is to have the mobs be "linked" to the "nest".. my suggestion is that the nest scans the area in order to spawn a hostile, if it doesn't find any non-natural generating blocks or if it doesn't find big holes it spawns regular wolfs/bears, if, instead if finds non-natural blocks or player placed blocks and/or holes around it, it instead spawns feral versions of said mobs, those mobs only drop bones and a smaller hide than it should give but be way more hostile, to prevent cheese the mobs should walk X distance from the nest towards a randomly selected direction (that's why i say it should be linked) which immediately does on spawn. if the mob succeeds, it gets the full drop table, else it lowers the % chance of item drop in proportion of how far the mob was from their original distance. the direction is randomly selected (may be applied to the whole pack of wolves) and the distance is random between 2 numbers (let's say from 7 to 21 blocks) so if you want to break it, you can do it, if you want to cheese you will need to have a 21x21 area fenced and trapped and you'll get less drops from that if any. the truth is that we evolved IRL to "trap" the nest entrance of a hell lot of animals (half of the dog breds and ferrets, for example are meant to trap wild animals in a way or another )

so i'm trying to acess the mod.vintagestory.at website and it tells me it's not a safe site (i never had issues before) and when i try to log in it says that my auth isn't right so i try to log again and now it throws the error 500 (The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.). i don't know if it's a temporal thing but... it's weird that now of a sudden every browser tells me "it's not a safe site", i can browse it, i can check the mods, but doesn't allow me to log in.

they already answered your question, however i will add a bit of information about climate and exploration -Ideally caves. they are not as important as they are in the other super famous, super simple block game but they can contain ruined rooms and those ruined rooms may contain either money in the form of rusted gears (that will allow you to buy food "in extremis" in some vendors or even seeds) or better yet, translocators. translocators. they must be repaired using temporal gears and they will teleport you to another random translocator. why is that important? because they are usually really far away one to another (easily >1k blocks) making exploration really easy -Appropiate climate. unless you changed the world parameters a radious of 100 to 1000 blocks isn't that much. you may want to move to the south, which is usually the home of terra pretta (the warmer the climate, and rainy the more common it is, however it is still very rare) which is the best soil of the game, so you can use your "winter" months looking around the equator of the world. in a standard world the distance from the pole to the equator is 100k blocks and if you haven't changed anything then you spawn around 50k blocks from the equator (and that's why i said 100 to 1k blocks isn't that much) -BEES: they don't like rainfall and don't like colder climates, so you will have a really hard time finding bees in your area, so since you're gonna visit the south, make sure you hold a spot to be able to carry bees to your main base. check the witki for more details about bees my advise is to stash as much food as possible for the winter time and then proceed to explore to the south until you find the hot climate that allows you to at least farm during the winter.

looks like after the harvest everything is "settling" to a more normal behaviour. maybe it was something about the conversion of the world that messed up the farm.

you can also water them by hand making a watering can out of clay if placing water in the same level is not a viable option. keep in mind that any block in contact with water can have 75% humidity and every block apart is 25% less and it affects growth speed. [water][75%][50%][25%][00%] and also [water][75%][50%][50%][75%][water]

yep that's what confused the heck out of me too. the save already had 2 ingame years (i stopped playing mid may year 2) and used to explore a lot in the winter times to the south, the save was prior the 1.18 update tho, i couldn't play before because i was in another country for work, but i'm home again and i took the save that i already had because i had a cozy house and a lot of paths.. the save uses the "from golden combs" mod but i higly doubt it changes anything about the crops..

everything is more or less the same fir water. for the ones more in the middle (encased in water), humidity is 75%, the ones more on the left side (Without water) are around 50% humidity (as expected) all of the linen is growing in terra pretta. the ones that are growing 4/9 have 65'9% k with a 96% speed growth the ones that are growing 3/9 have 71'2% k with a 97% speed growth the ones that are growing 1/9 have 80% k with a 107% speed growth. the mature ones were sitting on a 41,9% k

so in a previous post (Growing (a beard while waiting) ) i asked why crops took like 2 full months to grow. but now i have another question related to them. why are they growing so differently between them??? if you check the image you can see that some linen has grown to maturity (9/9) (first row on the left, middle-bottom) but there's some that's not even started to grow. most of it sits at 1/9, some at 3/9 and 4/9 what's goin on with this crazy disparity? also, the coldest temperature i've registered in my place is 10ºC and onions are "cold damaged" (which in the tooltip says they can support -1ºC) and it's 10 of may

i totally get your point, but again most of those seeds never sprout and there's a fun reason for the oak ones, and in the other hand a lot of them are eaten, fall in a too shady place and at least in the field my parents have all pinecones are eaten by squirrels and luckily we have a sprount once every few years but that's it. Oak trees, as I said, are really really fun, because they control the squirrel behaviour. they produce a regular amount of seeds (low quantities) so squirrel population keeps low for a few years, then they sky-rocket the production of seeds one year and have a massive increase of fertile seeds, with so many nuts the squirrel adopt the "i have to store a lot of food for the winter" instead of eating as much as possible which makes them bury the seeds (edit: yes, they bury the seeds every year to have food in the winter, but the "bloom years" are special and the squirrel eat less seeds in general because they can store a lot more), planting a lot of fertile seeds in the process. since the tree produced so many seeds the squirrels are unable to eat them all and paired with the fact that they forget where most of the seeds are planted (this is really fun tbh) you get a massive reproduction of trees and if i remember correctly this behaviour is a loop of 5 years which consist of a 4 "famish" years and one "bloom" year. once planted the seed has to sprout and survive which is a whole new story. oaks have a strong relationship with other life forms in the wild. you can plant an oak and it may spout and grow, but without the proper conditions, and mind-blowingly without the proper fungus and the amount of "brothers", it will grow "ill-looking", with a small trunk and not so many leaves and it will be quite prone to illnesses. things that make seeds not sprout: not proper symbiotical relationships close-by. not enough brothers too crowded space not a cold-enough winter too cold winter. not a wet-enough spring too wet not a fertile seed not fertile soil too fertile soil not enough light too much light. too arid too mineral rich too close to bioaccumulators (such as the fly agaric) too many pests too much poo and/or pee ground too acid gound too basic seed having a strong growth inhibitor (thus not sprouting before decomposing) seed not having a strong growth inhibitor (thus sprouting in non-optimal conditions and dying) seed not having a strong enough root-producing agents (thus not having the proper root system and dying out of starvation) ground too soft (seeds get buried too much) ground too hard (plant can't develop roots properly or get washed away by rain) terrain suffers a lot of transit (animal paths) so... do you rather have 100 seeds in your inventory which are only obtainable in the fall and on top of that only one of them sprouts into a tree or do you prefer to have 1/100 chance of getting a seed which will sprout for sure? do you want realism? make any crops that have >45% water rot in 3 days

the issue is that, paraphrasing paracelsus "everything is poison, nothing is poison, quantity makes the poison" and by that i mean that you can have a certain amount of poison and nothing can happen (depends on the potency) for example, fly agaric is known as a "killer mushroom" per se, but it's name is due to the use of said mushroom as insecticide. the reality is just more than just an hallucinogen. HOWEVER it is indeed poisonous so DON'T eat it unless you know what you're doing. but then, why don't use it as a poison? the question is.. how you get all the poison out of it. distill it? it's poison is water soluble so, boiling it will "detoxify the mushroom" which dilutes the poison itself and discarding the water makes, according to some sources, the mushroom actually become edible, but DON'T TRY IT anyways. so you have the problem of having a low concentration of poison so you need a big injection, low concentrations = not really a poison but more of a dangerous hallucinogen... on the other hand you could dry the mushroom which increases the potency of the poison itself, but then.. how you make others eat it? but how long does it take to be effective? depending on the dose around 30 minutes up to 90 and with the proper care people could completely recover in 24h. (there's no antidote, however), since it's a slow acting poison.. then there's no actual use in a "fight" that should last for a few seconds... what about the effects? because some poisoned traps could do the trick.. welp.. that's the fun part. everything OR nothing! dangerous things OR safe things! YAY! it's the lottery mushroom. you either feel euphoria or relaxation, ataxia or loss of equilibrium, delirium or twitching drowsiness, happiness or sadness.. but the worst poisoning is having the deliriums followed by "block of neurotransmitters", hallucinations, confusion and irritability... and under any circumstances you want to face an irritated wolf or a bear that's having hallucinations and episodes of seizures, but the best case it will enter into a coma so.. that's not that bad. will you take the risk?

it makes sense for me. delicate breaking is better at getting clippers (useful branches and/or seedlings) that go full caveman and just fell a tree. of course this is a game and it's not an obligation to be as realist as possible but yet..

thanks for the tips! but i had an issue this last week with the steam deck and vintage story. somehow the last update (18.5) and some linux things made it so buttons could not be pressed because mesa was automatically turned on, however when i turn it off via arguments the game randomly freezes, and i can't even load a world without the freeze occurring, so i can't right now..

if i go full nerd i can tell that the issue with the poison-tipped arrows is not the poison itself but the arrow. there are not so many poisons that are easily accesible and will stick to the arrow tip. the acceleration and/or the "wind" the arrow experiences will make the poison just slip away from the tip, which gives you two options, regular arrows + some kind of sponge-material which will greately slow down your arrow AND not assure the application of the poison, or a special caged arrow which will have it's balance thrown away thus flying lesser and dealing less damage. those are the two real reasons of why there are not burning arrows IRL. too much of a hassle for too little reward. if your intention is to kill mobs faster your best bet is to make a Hupa tribe barbed arrow or if you want to increase your odds of finding the arrow in the corpse by adding a hook on them. the arrow will probably still break, but the head will still be there for sure still, eating a poisoned animal is... a great way to... teleport to the spawn point. but if you rather kill drifters just let your iron arrow heads rust in the ground close to your sheeps ... being honest, being on a sight of drifter shaking having spasms sounds kind of fun...