Vratislav

Not entirely sure about it. I did some experiments in creative and in some cases it was jammed despite rotating directions were compatibile. But I was trying to combine waterwheel and windmill...

- Some (again more valuable) vessels are burried by one layer of dirt. - Most "village" ruins have one or two buildings with a cellar, where more valuable loot can be found. Can be found by digging holes by ruin walls, if the walls go deeper than 2 blocks, there is good chance of cellar to be found. It is usually accessible without pickaxe.

I have found some mods that either try to fix the issue by shortening the time or trying to bypass it by adding new mechanics (making quicklime in bloomery, in beehive kiln, in special pits) or making plaster cheaper. I really intend to use one, but still not sure which one is the most appropriate for my vanilla+ gameplay. Quicklime In Bloomery: https://mods.vintagestory.at/bloomeryquicklime (looks the best for me, also adds some use to pulverizer) Quicklime in Kiln https://mods.vintagestory.at/show/mod/5380 (not confirmed for 1.22 and a bit complicated) Immersive Quicklime: https://mods.vintagestory.at/immersivequicklime (nice, but as new mechanics seems too far from vanilla features) Tweaked Plaster And Quicklime Crafts https://mods.vintagestory.at/show/mod/41193 (making plaster cheaper, thus reducing the amount of quicklime needed) Actually Quick Lime https://mods.vintagestory.at/actuallyquicklime (decreases baking temp. to 150 deg, a bit cheaty) Really not sure which one is the solution for me, but maybe you may decide for your favorite one.

Yes, found out too, had to skip making ropes from vines for now. Also, on "almost vanilla" setting, with only few mods (some worldgen, chiselTools, zoomButton) active.

I am with you. In the actual gameplay, I got mostly andesite two thousands blocks around, so I just left the lime for the journey to the 2nd story locations. Before the lime, I had borax (at least leatherworking was possible), 2nd. tier bricks, steel, ilmenite and chromite. What I feel discomfortable, is a lime consumption to make quicklime and then plaster - as firing of quicklime is terribly expansive (both for peat and attention) and cannot be done in bloomery.

There is also quite straightforward guide that can help in first days, although following it means you will lost the appeal of trial and error. And don't get worried if your first worlds will not go well, just wrap it up if your are going nowhere and start again. My first long time world was like fifth or sixth attempt after being mauled by wolfs, drifters, bears and pigs, and almost froze on second of May. For worldgen mods, I think that increasing default world height by one or two steps does not kill the performance. I have about five years old gaming laptop (do not remember video specs, but 16G RAM) and usually play with 320 world height without issues.(I could even play higher worlds, but then the sea level rises over 150 and it is already too much to dig to the bottom for some late game ores that occur only there.)

Maybe you have already found, but just in case, there is easy method to change direction of rapids or stop it: using full trapdoors working as sluices above a waterwheel. As the most primitive method, you may simply stop the water from flowing, replacing brake or clutch in early game by single trapdoor (and also sparing self of noise of the flowing water or of the waterwheel itself when not necessary, if you feel it annoying). If you want to be more fancy, you may make setup pretending that the rapids are filling a water reservoir above the waterwheel, or just go around the waterwheel by secondary trough. ( Made video on Tumblr too: https://www.tumblr.com/vrataf/816527092107902977/using-trapdoors-to-redirect-water-flow-and-to-turn )

In general, new worldgen (rapids, berry bushes, dungeons) will activate in unexplored areas. Not sure about fish. In already explored areas, you may try to replace standard streams by rapids in creative, I'd not consider this a big cheating. You may also try to regenerate chunks (at least these that were not touched) or prune the world for untouched areas to be generated again, but this may be risky and create terrain walls on border chunks, especially if using worldgen mods. So to make a backup the world is necessary. (I have bad beginner's experience with regen when upgrading to 1.21 with red clay came and I was so eager to generate red clay deposits that I run to it without making backup, forgetting I use Plains and Valleys mod, so I created really ugly chunk walls quite nearby my base. Then I spent hours in creative by masking them as natural cliffs .)

As I have tried to play in pre- releases and testing mods I use in my long time world, yup: there were a lot of changes under the hood, and mods that are not updated will mostly cause problems. For the most popular mods with dedicated developers, they will surely update to 1.22 stable soon and we should be deeply thankful to them. For other cases, I can recommend from my experience mostly with worldgen mods: Check if the latest version of the mod was updated at least to 1.22-pre 8/10 version. Woldgen mods from 1.21 will surely not work correctly, even mods updated to pre- 4-5 version may fail as the worldgen was modified due to elements like berry bushes and dungeons. Some mods that are no longer being updated, could be forked and are maintained by other people, e.g. Natural Trail Mod has at least third fork already. If you are able, the abandoned mod is simple and the fix is possibly easy, you may try to update it for yourselves (not that I do it, but there are many players who are capable of it.)

But I was not able to replicate in .rc.10...

It did not compensate?

As there are problems to use the schematics in later stable versions: The schematic was generated in version 1.21.5 and the worst offender of problematic blocks is probably Natural Trail mod CUPdated, that I am not fully sure with version used. But it should be either https://mods.vintagestory.at/trailmodcupdated 1.2.1 or rather its 1.3.0 fork Natural Trails updated here: https://mods.vintagestory.at/show/mod/29192. I will generate new version of the schematics after I successfully upgrade the world on 1.22 stable.

It seems that "symmetric" layout (water from the top to the middle or all 8 covered) means that the wheel cannot decide, where to rotate and how to calculate the output. Seems logical. However, I was surprised that the relation of the number of active blocks and of the output is not linear.

Have you checked number of active block powering the waterwheel? I did some experiments earlier to realize that "low water" has usually 3 active blocks, but with high water, you may get up to five active blocks powering the waterwheel. However I haven't tested for the difference in power output.

Yes, most advice was already said: Starting from small and expanding slowly, leaving enormous detailing (and chiseling) for later, designing in creative, (ab)using MC tutorials and using real buildings, MC builds or even builds from other games for inspiration. In addition to this, I'd really emphasize designing, starting from rough paper sketches (paper with 5mm grid is your best friend) and then in more detail in creative. You may test general proportions of the building just by sketching it on the paper. Then, in creative, you set up colors and details: which local stones fit with local wood types, what is the good window frame design (by putting several ones put side to side), elaborate crazy ideas, and decide then if to build it. It can be tweaked in survival a bit, so even the creative designing does not need to be too meticulous. From my personal experience, in two 1.22 testing worlds, I was lazy to do the design on paper or in creative and started building bases without designing: oh, I was disappointed with the results...