Tam Hawkins

Hey Dilan thanks for the fast reply, but it does not answer any of my questions. I already have all the numbers I just want to know how they exactly apply. What I have figured out by now: Vernalization time in the code is noted as hours. While crops which are invluenced by lengthening months are denoted as factors of months (like 1,5 months lenght). Instead vernalization is given in hours (vernalizationHours: { avg: 250, var: 30 }). Therefore I assume the answer to question number 3 is that length of months does not affect vernalization time. Which is great for me but makes me wonder how fruit trees are supposed to work if someone sets the days per month really low. For the other questions I am left guessing though. Question 1 + 4: I cannot find how the progress of checking for temperatures for dormancy, die below and vernalization is done. Is it a single tick and if the temperature fits it immediatly goes dormant/dies/adds a number of hours to vernalization (last one maybe dependant on the last check?). For now I assume that a single tick below the temperature triggers dormancy/death. Question 2: I also cannot find in the code how vernalization works. some users claim that it does not need to be all in one step so I assume that as long as the tree does not leave dormancy it will resume vernalization of the temperature drops again but I do not know. Maybe I chould make a test world and use commands to test it... now I just have to figure out how to do that

Hello Everyone, I want to make a base in which I want to grow evergreen trees for my food needs but also need deciduos trees for another project (making a giant cherry tree). Currently I am trying to figure out if the temperature range in the place I choose is correct and would like some input from the community if I am rigth how vernalization works. Vernalization: The fruit tree needs to be exposed to -3°C to enter dormancy. Then, while dormant it needs to be below 2-5°C (depending on the tree) for at least 220-280 in game hours. FInally when the tree leaves dormancy it will start flowering. If I got the above rigth then here are my questions: 1. How long does it need to be below -3°C to enter dormancy. Is a night enough? an hour? does it need an entire day? 2. Does vernalization need to be consecutive or can ther be breaks? For example if the days after dormancy have an average of 14 hours below venalizaition temperature and an average of 10 hours above vernalization temperature will vernalization still happen after 20 days or will it not work? 3. I am playing on TOPS and the months are 30 days instead of 9, does that mean vernalization hours are more than 3 times as long as normal (so more than 660 hours?) 4. Can Temperatures fall under the die treeshold for a short amopunt of time? If yes how long? Would that be long enough to put the cherry trees into dormancy but short enough to not kill my other trees? I am planning to have the cherry trees elevated (the fake giant tree will be on a hill so roughly +10-20 until the "tree starts" and an aditional 25-40 blocks hight for the tree itself, maybe higher if necessary) and the evergreens in green houses, maybe even set down into the ground a little (at most 8 blocks down so that the "roof" of the greenhouse lends itself as a plaza to walk on) though I would like to avoid it if that is possible. Thanks for reading and any answer that is given, Tam

Thank you. I am not really using discord so I am never in the loop when game devs use it primarily.

Hello everyone, I was not sure if that belonged in the "questions" or "multiplayer" part of the forum instead of this, I hope posting it here is alright. I started my journey on the official server yesterday (theoretically a few months ago but did not do anything on it until yesterday). When I wanted to resume my travels today to find a good initial base location i could not find the server anywhere on the list. I also cannot see any announcment or talk about it in the forum. So I was wondering if I am the only one not seeing the server. I know there was somebody grieving yesterday (chatwindow was going wild about destroyed roads). Is that maybe the reason?

Get the bismuth in any case even if you find tin later. You can use bismuth to make plates and use these to make lanterns and you can never have enough lanterns.

Okay, I tried it out and the conclusions are funny. First of all I tried out three set ups. Two as you shown in your post with 3 and 5 active blocks and then another with four active blocks. While I cannot note any significant difference between 3 and 4 active bolcks (3 helve hammer at slow speed, stops with 4). Once you have 5 active blocks you can have a fourth helve hammer at slow speed. Now here is where the fun begins. Additional rapid falling from the center top through the middle of the wheel to the bottom. Alone? No active blocks detected and no rotation. Together to the former setup? 6 active blocks (I assume the center does not count). And can move up to 6 helve hammers so a 50% increase in workpower. Problem is you need another rapid for that. But I can see it as usefull If you have 2 or more rapids and not enough resources for a second wheel yet. Ok what about 3 rapids from the left, middle and rigth top to the bottomso that all 8 blocks are active? I cant make it work. What I mean is not that it stops. It just fluctuates weirdly between detecting 8, 3, 0 or 5 blocks and weirldy enough the rotation of the wheel and the amount of helve hammer it can drive als seems inconsistence not only in general but also with how many blocks the wheel registers currently. I would highly suggest to keep it at one or two rapids per wheel in survival as otherwise one might lose the resources for the wheel as it seems to not handle abuse of that level well. I then tried having only 1 or two blocks active and the effect was as expected a weaker output: 2 active blocks can drive 2 helve hammers and stop at 3, while 1 active block can only support 1 helve hammer and stops at 2. That said you actively need to sabotage yourself for that set up so I do not think anyone will want that.

I had heard from someone on youtube that it did not matter s I did not test it. Give 2-3 hours and I will test it when I come back from work.

I played around in creative with rapids to see how to utilise them best and wanted to share my findings. Not sure how much is already known but I'll share it anyway. So first Whaterwheels and rapids: I tried out tree setups. 1. Waterwheel beeing feed by 3 rapids flowing into each other before meeting the waterwheel. 2. 3 Waterwheels in paralel directly connected via avles and no big gear to unite them (big gear was used later to speed up) 3. 3 Waterwheels connected via big gear I wanted to see if uniting 3 rapids cuold lead to 3 waterwheels beeing build right after each other. But the stream immediatly turned non rapid after the first wheel. Next I speed up the rotation with one big gear to see how many helve hammers each waterwheel can support. For 1. the number was 3 (total stop at 4) and for 2. and 3. the number was 9 (total stop at 10). For 3. I also checked how many helve hammers before speed was going down significantly and the number seems to be either 4 or 5. At 5 the speed still was fast but I noticed some weird fluctuations in speed. Next was Aquaducts I tried different setuops to see how much I could elongate the rapids with different hight drops and drop frequency. My conclusion is a very simple one. Ever drop in elevation sets the rapids length to 5 blocks. So the best setup for a long Aquaduct is to let it drop one block, then let it flow for 4 blocks (including the block it dropped on!!!) and then let it drop one more level with the fifth block. The sole exception is the first drop as the source allows for a drop at the 7th block That way you get a nice calculation for how long you aquaduct can be depending on the starting hight of the rapid vs the destination hight. Lets say you want to bring a rapid to another place adn the rapid starts at 160 heigth while the destination is at 110 height (so 50 height difference). Length = l, heightdiff = h l = 1*6 + (h-1)*4 Then the maximum length you have for your aquaduct is: lenght = 1*6 + 49*4 = 202 blocks Hope this is helpfull, Tam

I am looking to get one bush with all positive traits and one bush with all negative traits and I finaly got one of them.But that made me wonder. Clearly most red traits are bad and most green traits are good. More berries is alwys better than less. Less nutrition uptake and as such less need for fertilizer is better than having to use more fertilizer. Spending less time harvesting... to be honest I am not sure I care too much, but still spending less time on it is clearly better than spending more. But what about longer or shorter ripe duration. Sure ripe duration beeing longer means that you have more time to harvest the berries. But I was wondering, does anyone need that etra time? I normaly harvest them whenever they rippen and it normaly says that there are 3-4 days left, so the longer or shorter ripe times do not really affect me at least. Is there maybe some case were shorter ripe times are more beneficial when you are away, as you would miss out on the current harvest anyway, but maybe can get one before winter comes and longer ripe times would have prevented that? I was wondering what others were thinking. And here is a picture of my new little blueberry bush which I have named "worst":

It would be. In the baby pig fiel you can easily find a codesegment for growth that turns the baby into am "pig-{type}-adult-{gender}". pig stands simply for pig, type for the variant (eurasion = gray, redriver for river and warthog for well....) , adult stands for a grown up pig while babys are called "baby" and here is the interesting part, the larges are in this section as well as "elder" and then gender is for female or male. So the baby per the code can only grow int gray pig, river pig and warthog. Large gray is simply an age variant of the normal gray. Sadly adult pigs do not seem to have code to make them grow over time, so they very likely will not grow anymore. I still keep my current grays around, there is no harm in that and maybe I have overlooked something.

I doubt they will, but I will leave one of my current grays alive to see if it changes and how long it takes (For the record: They grew up in the first year in the begining of may)

Thank you. That is a bit disapointing but its fine, I will do with normal grays then. Maybe I go for river hog later.

Hello everyone. I was recently going to great lengths to obtain a large gray boar and a large gray sow and herding them back to my base. After giving birth to a new litter they grew up into normal gray boars and sows. Is that intended? I wa sunder the impression that these were supposed to be different species. I am on rc6 btw. Thanks to everyone reading this and especially if you know the answer.

I am not sure if this should be in Questions or discussion so I post it here. I have tried out the new berry bushes and I find them not so much different from the old ones, honestly it might be even easier to get more since you can just duplicate them. But I noticed a few things I was wondering about and wanted to know what others think about them: 1. Maturing: Berry bush cuttings when planted need around 3 months to mature. Once they do they can mature into all states (mature, flowering, rippening and ripe). Is that intended? I thought they would all go to mature and then after a while start flowering and so on. 2. Fertility. They supposedly need to be fertilitzed to keep healthy. I planted mine in medium fertility soil (50% fertility) and after harvesting the fertility is not going down even 1%. Is the reduction on fertility just not shown or does it do so little that one cycle is not showing a difference? 3. Taking Cuttings. Taking cuttings from a bush makes it so that there is a 12-13 months cooldown before taking another cutting. Making it so that you can take another cutting after a year. But that can be circumvented by taking a cutting from the cutting. After planting your cutting and waiting 3 months you can immediatly take a new cutting. Since they are all copies from each other that means you can take 4 cuttings that are the exact copies per year and then next year you can do the same but 4-5 times as much. Meaning that a single bush can turn into 5 in the first year and then 1-5 in the next year from each cutting of last year. That means your bushes can pretty much explode in populance. If you find just a single good bush that you want to keep in the first year you can have 4 of them (I am excluding the original since that one might be far away), then next year you can have 4+3+2+1 = 10 more bushes so overall 14 bushes already and in your third year you can have 4*5+4*4+3*3+2*2+1=50 new bushes then add your old ones and you are at 64 bushes. From what I understand the devs wanted to make bushes less avaiable to just put in your base, but that does not seem to happen here. I am not against any of these points (except maybe nr1 as that seems just weird) but I was wondering if that is all intended? What do you guys think? Best Regards, Tam

Hey thanks for the help^^ Depends on the server was the answer I expected for most of this and go to discord the one I feared. I tried the official server and had a 4h waiting queue, followed by running for 2k blocks before I found the first thing I could pick up (there are things to pick up but everything is claimed). Ihave a hard time even getting to anywhere I can pick up food before my hunge rruns out (and that is running in a straigth line just as far away from spawn as possible) so in conclusion I am staying away from this as far as I can there is sadly no point to it.