Professor Dragon

Have a look at this mod and the comments on the thread against it: https://mods.vintagestory.at/customplaystyles Also, the Devs say it is fine to ping them with questions. I imagine in the case of an underdocumented feature, it would be fine. If you haven't seen it, this thread is worth a read: Professor Dragon.

I agree. I just tried out a snow shovel for the first time (hadn't really had a need before). I have just built a 14x14 Greenhouse, except the interior space was a full field of grass covered with snow. "Perfect to test the new snow shovel!" I thought. Except . . . it was underwhelming. I was expecting it to do something like clear three blocks wide, quickly. A bit like a scythe. Instead, it seems to be not much quicker (if at all?) compared with just punching the snow with an empty hand (or bed or food bowl . . .). I was thinking of going "Brrrrrrr!" as I buzzed across the field. Here I am though, checking on the internet if I just didn't understand snow shovels and how to use them. It's only benefit is that it is cheap (a few planks - so saw technology required). Durability is consumed though. So, basically useless for clearing snow in practical terms. The only good use case I have seen while looking around, is that it allows you to clear snow off chiselled blocks or those other janky scenarios where snow falls oddly. This is a very good use indeed. In short, snow shovels could do with a buff to make them worth crafting. Professor Dragon.

Yes - you want the Issue Tracker for something like this: https://github.com/anegostudios/VintageStory-Issues You'll need to make an account, but it is totally worth it. Nicely described troubleshooting, by the way. Include all of that, and the logs in that other post. I'm not sure there is much we can advise here except something drastic like 'Uninstall and reinstall everything." Professor Dragon (Not a mod) EDIT P.S. Double-check Hardware Requirements first: https://www.vintagestory.at/sysrequirements/

That sounds good! So, look at the glass, press "F" and choose the orientation. A Wrench can be used in vanilla to flip slabs and stairs orientation. I'd specifically like the drop orientation to be retained though, rather than re-crafting or re-flipping. The issue with both the Wrench, and if the new functionality were to be introduced similar to the method above, is that it still burns through extra operation steps. I'd just like my vertical glass to stay vertical UNTIL I order a state change. Professor Dragon.

Having lost an elk to random shennanigans myself, I can strongly recommend the following. /gamemode creative "Return" your missing elk and equipment from the Creative Inventory menu Slap on a complementary "upgrade" of some type, such as a snazzy elk blanket, for your trouble /gamemode survival Rejoice! I have zero remorse with fixing game issues with Creative, although I try to be a stalwart of regular game progression otherwise. Professor Dragon.

SUGGESTION: Broken glass slabs should retain their orientation status, rather than returning to "Auto" orientation. When building, often the glass slabs will be in the same orientation. For example, doing windows they would typically be vertical. If you're doing a greenhouse roof, then horizontal. However, breaking glass returns it to the (annoying) "Auto" state. I would like it that breaking a glass slab would retain the status that it had when it was in position. This is because you'll likely be using it on a similar orientation shortly. For example, when placing windows into walls and trying out spacing. Or when placing different colours in a greenhouse roof. This would save the shuffle from breaking the glass, and pivoting it through the state changes. Supplementary request: The default state of slabs should have "Auto" last, rather than first. For example, rather than the current "Auto, horizontal, vertical", have the default orientation be "Vertical, horizontal, Auto." I rarely find the "Auto" state to be useful, as typically you are doing a lot of one kind of work. You have to cycle out of it anyway, so put it at the end. (Or put it into an Option the way that you want the glass sort order to go. . . ) Thanks, Professor Dragon.

SUGGESTION: Right click to swap out flowers/plants/mushrooms from flowerpots and planters I would like to be able to "right click" to swap out flowers, plants or mushrooms from flowerpots and planters. Currently, you have to break the pot, replace the pot and then replant. This would make it quicker to try out different décor options. For example, if I held a Heather plant in my active slot, then a right-click would swap it for the Dwarf Furze. Thanks, Professor Dragon.

I recommend that you add your logs and comments here: https://github.com/anegostudios/VintageStory-Issues/issues/9172 The regen command (with small radius) is currently the only fix I am aware of. It will nuke everything in that area back to "standard", so use sparingly, and not around anything you care about. There's also good troubleshooting on that thread about copying your world and checking if the issues regenerate there, and then doing the same thing again without mods. Professor Dragon.

You don't need roads to begin with. And by the time you can really afford roads, you're probably capable of completing the first story mission and getting the reward <Spoilers> , which kind of makes roads redundant.

SUGGESTION: Be able to pick up an item from next to a 1x1x1 block of water, without jumping into it. Most of us keep a 1x1x1 block of water close to the Forge, in order to Quench an item. Currently the only way to retrieve those items, is to jump into the water, in order to pick it up. (Although this is immersive, it is not immersive.) I'd like a way for the auto-pickup to retrieve those items if you are next to the block AND/OR for there to be a "reach" mechanic to retrieve them. Perhaps if tongs are equipped in the off-hand (as they would be for forging anyway), then cold items will be retrieved from the water, if standing adjacent to the water block? (Or do people chisel fancy shallow quenching troughs? Does that work?) I see that there are mods out there that increase base pick-up range, but I'm suggesting that as this is a very vanilla game activity, that there should be a pickup in this scenario. Oh, and the quenching process is pretty satisfying, so there could always be a second or so delay between "cooling completed" to "pick-up." Link the check for the tongs and player range for the metal cooling to zero. Professor Dragon.

You wouldn't think a big boat could go over one block deep, would you? Anyway, I struggled with a duck pond (besides the obvious "no ducks") as it was a mixed height, deep pond. The water seemed to always want to "flow" somewhere, and it was fiddly to correct. Got the pond done in the end, but doing a deep canal would give me trauma, I'm pretty sure. Professor Dragon.

Travel some more - it sounds like you have only been a few hundred blocks, because if you'd been further, you should see sedimentary rocks on the surface layers easily. Bauxite is rarer - you may need to stock up and do a few overnight trips. To clarify, bauxite is not rare . . . it is just one of the rocks that many people have to travel for. It is, however, bright orange - so you know when you find it. But it is of no use until you've reached the mechanical age and have a pulverizer. (Unless you just really like orange rocks.) Likewise, Traders are out there, but you need some day trips. They are harder, in my view, to find on this patch, as they don't stand out as much on the world map - but they're there, if you know what to look for. They're easier to see from a distance at night, as they are lit up. So standing in a high place surrounded by flat areas at night, with a high render distance, should help. (Of course, monsters are out at night, so take care.) I also on my current world needed to have a big long trip before I found a medium soil area. Again, this is not rare. It's just sometimes you can start in a bad spot. LONG STORY, SHORT: Treat your spawn location as just a place to gear up to do a bit more traveling. Then all of the things you mentioned will reveal themselves over time. My recommendation would be to focus on medium soil location first, as it will help with early game farming. Oh, and keep a note of that Periodot, that's good to know - you'll need that later as a possible Olivine location. You can't use Traders until you have gears or trade goods. And chalk is a rarer rock - but limestone plains are "easier" to find. Professor Dragon.

Amazing! What was the process of filling it with water like? Is there a good way? I remember doing some small ponds and a river and thinking "pain."

Everything that @MKMoose said is right. However, STRONGLY CONSIDER using World Edit for this task. The task is simply too big for the reward to make it worthwhile, in my view. Somewhere on this forum is the tale from a team of users who did something similar, along with the number of tools they burnt through and the time it took. My recommendation is to learn to use World Edit for this and chunk out the big rectangles, and then take as much time as you wish from the time you saved to (a) sail your boat around and/or (b) nicely decorate the route with flowers, shrubs, trees and blocks. That by itself will be rewarding. Get good with World Edit and you could even make a nicely decorated canal section and repeat it, and then just make variations where it meets the terrain. Professor Dragon.

No. You can buy however different carpets from traders: https://wiki.vintagestory.at/Carpet And who knows what the world of mods holds? EDIT Eg - This one might be useful for coloured carpet: https://mods.vintagestory.at/dyedcloth Professor Dragon.

Very interesting! Could spruce it up decoratively also. It does rely on Copper Age technology for the chisel.

Correct. I also just retested in game using dirt and stone, and confirmed there is no difference (on my world) as expected. KEY POINTS OF CELLARS 1. Main Wiki page for Cellars, including all of the build rules, is here: https://wiki.vintagestory.at/Room#Cellar 2. Specifically, the important value is the "cooling score", discussed on the same page here: https://wiki.vintagestory.at/Room#Cooling_Score 3. Build with standard dirt or stone blocks and you will be fine. Avoid wood blocks, hay bales, chiselled blocks, air gaps, sunlight, glass. 4. Early game cellar. In your bunker, dig two blocks down. Place your Storage Vessel, fill with food. Put back one dirt block on top of it. Voila! Instant cellar (and a free block). Option: Build the same design into a dirt wall, and just knock the top block out to access it. 5. Doors are bad, but light is much, much worse. Rather than using a solid trapdoor or solid door, the best door block is dirt (unfortunately). Quick to break, and solid. A compromise is hay bales. Not as effective, but quicker to break. However, for attractiveness you may want to use wooden trapdoors or doors and take the cellar efficiency hit - especially in a cold climate and if the other rules are met. Do not, however, let sunlight be anywhere near your cellar, especially the door. 6. Cellars obey room sizes. Easy to remember maximum is 7 x 7 x 7 with solid blocks facing inwards. This can be tweaked, but the room rules need to be respected. 7. Too much? Don't like it? Mods! As always with Vintage Story, mods let you change the rules you don't like. From valid cellar room sizes, to putting on ceramic doors with full insulating values. Eg (Still works on current version according to mod thread): https://mods.vintagestory.at/cellardoor 8. It doesn't matter too much. I've just completed 100+ hours on the new stable patch, and found that by the second game year, my farms were again throwing out way more food than a single player could ever possibly eat. If you have one 14 x 14 greenhouse and/or or a few small fields, you will too. Food is not the big killer in this game that it is made out to be. Remember this: You're building your "perfect cellar" for pride and efficiency - not because you'll be wondering where your next meal is coming from. Professor Dragon.

I think you want: K's Cartography Table Haven't used it myself, but it seems like the "go to" on multiplayer servers. Pretty sure there's more options as well. Professor Dragon.

I second this. Just not too loud or annoying - or if so, please add their own separate sound slider. In the meantime . . . have you tried mods? There have got to be some mods around. There is this OLD mod (which sadly probably means it doesn't work), but maybe it does, or maybe there are other frog mods? https://mods.vintagestory.at/pondfrogsi Professor Dragon.

I might have to test this. But the code makes it seem like they should all give the same value. (I could be reading it wrong though or not all of it.) https://github.com/anegostudios/vsapi/blob/8b7ff79eb95bc6dfab47191751df988a2c332cfb/Common/Collectible/Block/Block.cs#L1975 From: public virtual int GetRetention(BlockPos pos, BlockFacing facing, EnumRetentionType type) /// <summary> /// Return a positive integer if the block retains something, e.g. (for warm rooms or greenhouses) or a negative integer if something can pass through, e.g. cool for cellars . . . if (mat == EnumBlockMaterial.Ore || mat == EnumBlockMaterial.Stone || mat == EnumBlockMaterial.Soil || mat == EnumBlockMaterial.Ceramic) { return -1; Professor Dragon.

Those blocks are all the same maximum rating for cellar effectiveness. Either is good. See https://wiki.vintagestory.at/Room#Cellar The more important question is cellar design, such as how far you are from an outside light source. You can tell the effectiveness by placing a Storage Vessel and looking at longevity value on the tool tip. Then compare to a Storage Vessel outside. If you bury yourself underground (no door, just under the soil) and look at the Storage Vessel, this will be the MAXIMUM that you can get. Professor Dragon.

I've just made my first iron anvil on the current stable release. That was an experience! I'm pretty sure that I used 12+ iron ingots for the anvil, rather than the 10 (5 top, 5 bottom) the wiki says you need. (Not sure why.) I ran two forges, one with a bellows, and a "fast enough" helve hammer. Apart from the usual difficulty of getting the voxels into the right place, as others have noticed, the bigger the pieces get, the faster they lose heat, which I agree is counter-intuitive. One last key point is that you really need to heat up the top and bottom pieces before applying the Borax and hammering them together. The "good enough" heat you use to add the iron pieces to the anvil bits is too low to actually do the anvil join. It needs to be 900C or above - I took it to 1000C and that worked. But 750 - 800C was not enough. Professor Dragon.

I know exactly what you have found. If you found it without assistance, then very well done! Anyway, if you want those gates, @Rainbow Fresh is correct - hop into Creative Mode, place them in your world, and switch back to Survival. If you feel you must pay a price for them, then sacrifice whatever amount you think is fair by throwing it in the ocean. Not what you asked, but some alternatives. In the vanilla game, go to the Handbook, type in "gate" and browse the selection - there's quite a good range, in all sizes. On the other hand, if you want something truly unique, go the path of mods. For example, this one has drawbridges and portcullis: https://mods.vintagestory.at/show/mod/44729 Professor Dragon.

Okay, spoiler section, if you haven't been to this story location. And for OTHER hats, don't forget mods! I've just found out that you can get a Frog Hat, of all things! Joy, is sparked in my heart. Professor Dragon.

Same. Master - 100% Effects - 20% Entity - 32% Ambient - 49% Weather - 29% Music - 4% Otherwise, the music is way too loud. Although I guess I could turn the other values UP and the Master down. But I think the music value is overtuned. Professor Dragon.