Streetwind

@Jamiro Morciano Google Translate Warning: De nombreuses grottes ne contiennent pas de cassitérite (étain). Il doit s'agir du bon type de pierre et seules quelques pierres peuvent le porter. Et, il doit apparaître sur le choix du prospecteur. Si le choix ne montre rien, il n'y a rien à trouver. Mais vous n'avez pas besoin de cassitérite pour progresser. Vous pouvez faire du bronze au bismuth à la place. L'avantage est que les ingrédients sont beaucoup plus courants. L'inconvénient est que vous avez besoin de deux ingrédients et du cuivre, pas d'un seul. Recherchez la bismuthinite et la sphalérite. Si vous trouvez les deux et que vous avez du cuivre, vous pouvez faire du bronze au bismuth. Dès que vous avez une enclume, une pioche et un marteau fait de cela, vous pouvez aller chercher du fer. Le bronze noir est également aussi bon que le bronze à l'étain ou le bronze au bismuth ... mais, pour extraire l'or et l'argent, vous avez besoin d'un médiator en bronze. Ce n'est donc pas vraiment quelque chose que vous pouvez utiliser pour la progression.

Absolutely in favor of this!

What exactly are you planning to use so much compost for, anyway? True, it makes slightly better farmland than medium quality soil, but considering that you can have a practically infinite supply of medium quality soil right from the moment you spawn into the world, your farm's total output is better increased by just making more farmland and planting more seeds. Additionally, you need to invest food into making compost. If you just ate the food straight-up, you wouldn't need so much extra farmland in the first place, right? (And then there's terra preta... and fertilizer...)

I recommend making a few tool racks on the outside of your home, and filling them with stone spears. At night, empty out your hotbar and fill it with spears plus a torch in the offhand, then go hunting. Four thrown stone spears will reliably kill a surface drifter without letting them get close enough to hurt you. It is also fast enough in inflicting that damage to keep the drifters from fleeing while injured, which is a problem with regular melee attacks or bow shots since it is very dark at night and you can easily lose them (or get pounced by other unseen enemies as you pursue). It helps that you can throw from relatively close up as they walk towards you, meaning you don't have to be a crackshot to pull this off. But one word of advice: you can begin charging the throw while walking backwards to maintain distance, but the crosshair won't shrink fully while you're in motion. For a split second, just before you release, you'll want to stop moving and make sure your accuracy is dead on. With a little practice, this will come naturally. Walk, charge, stop, release, new spear automatically pops into your hand, walk, charge, stop, release... Four shots in four seconds, one dead drifter. Pick up your spears, rinse, repeat. Come morning you should have plenty of corpses to dissect, and you'll have your temporal gear within a few nights.

If the anvil counting the hits works, then that is an option too, yeah. I thought it might have to be the work item or the hammer, since those two are directly involved - but you clearly know more about the game's internals than I do. That solution wouldn't allow for fun things like special hammers for loot. But ultimately, it's about finding a way to separate smithing durability loss from non-smithing durability loss, and that would be achieved. If it's the fastest and least involved way or the developers, might as well go with that!

Thanks again, that makes sense. I thought there was only one mode of generation, but I guess I understimated the game

Ich empfehle generell das Wiki hier auf der Webseite. Es ist zwar nicht überall komplett (oder aktuell), aber die Haupt-Spielmechaniken wie der Hochofen sind detailliert beschrieben. Einziger Nachteil: man muss wissen wie es im Englischen heißt. Das Suchen will ich dir ersparen, hier der direkte Link: https://wiki.vintagestory.at/index.php?title=Bloomery Die Sektion "Usage" ist das was du suchst. Am Ende ist auch noch ein Tutorialvideo verlinkt. Es ist nicht mehr ganz aktuell, aber die Verwendung des Ofens selbst hat sich nicht geändert.

Hmmm... no, I don't think that's a viable alternative. As I kept collecting my thoughts on why exactly, it just got longer and longer. In the end I decided to put it into a spoiler so it doesn't look like I'm beating you over the head with a wall of text for merely stating your opinion. That's not how it's meant. I just wanted to show how much extra work it would be to implement that deceptively simple workaround, and how many problems it potentially might create down the line for both new core features and for mod support.

So I've read in the changelog that hammers had their durability increased not too long ago. And after I got into smithing, recently, I understood why. Smithing just destroys hammers. I was making metal sheets for lamps, and a brand-new, full durability copper hammer could not finish three of them before breaking. Not even six ingots worth of work. Now I don't claim to be the best smith, so maybe if you go super efficient and don't miss any strikes you can barely pull off six, I don't know. Either way, it's surprisingly little. I would expect to be able to do more, even with the worst quality hammer. At the same time, the durability of hammers is already so much higher than other tools of the same metal that it begins to border on awkward. There is just no room to properly tune hammers for both smithing and non-smithing work at the same time. ...Or is there? The first instinct might be to go 'why not a chance-based solution'? If only a set percentage of all smithing hits subtracted durability, then durability could be tuned for non-smithing use, and in a second step, the percentage would tuned to be able to process the intended number of ingots on an anvil. However, chance-based solutions have a big downside: streakiness. A proper random set means that you have no guarantee that your intended distribution of 'hits' and 'misses' actually happens reliably on a small scale. You could in fact very well have a scenario where the intended end result is perfectly achieved when viewed across all players, while at the same time not being achieved for even a single individual player. And we don't care about the large picture here. It needs to work for every player individually. But there is a way to force a chance-based approach to work on the individual level, by intentionally sacrificing most of the randomness. Sounds counterintuitive? It isn't, trust me. This approach is called the entropy method. It is best understood with the help of a practical example, so here is one possible implementation method for an entropy-based smithing system: Each kind of smithing hammer is given a value of how often it should take damage from a smithing strike. It's typically expressed as a percentage (let's say 20%), but under the hood, it's just the number itself. We'll call this number the "break chance" for simplicity, even though it technically speaking is not a chance. When a work item is started by the player putting an ingot onto the anvil and selecting a pattern in the pop-up menu, a random number between 0 and 99 is generated. The result is stored in a counter attached to the work item, called the "entropy counter". Every time the player performs a strike with a hammer on this work item, that hammer's break chance number is added to the work item's entropy counter. As soon as the counter reaches or exceeds 100, the counter is reduced by 100, and the hammer takes one point of durability damage. This continues until the work item is destroyed - either by re-smelting it into an ingot, or by finishing the pattern. In this example, the hammer has a 1 in 5 "chance" to take damage - but the entropy counter ensures that it takes damage exactly 1 out of 5 times, every cycle, precisely on every fifth hit after the first damage instance. The starting value for the entropy counter is still random, so you will not know which hit will be the first one that causes damage. It also means that two otherwise identical work items with the identical number of steps performed on them might potentially cause different amounts of durability loss... but never more than one point of difference. A little bit of randomness, but not too much. Because the entropy counter is attached to the work item, it persists as long as the work item lives. The counter will not reset if you take a break to reheat the work item in the forge while you go stab a drifter. The counter will not reset if your hammer breaks halfway through and you continue with another hammer. The counter will not reset if a different player takes over from you - or even if multiple players hammer the work item at the same time, potentially even with different hammers that have different break chances. Whichever hammer trips the counter over the 100 mark will take the durability loss. However, each time a new work item is started, that work item randomizes its own starting value. It would also be possible, of course, to attach the entropy counter to the hammer itself. This approach means even less randomness, since each hammer only randomizes one starting value over its entire lifetime. In this case you might as well skip the random starting value entirely and just have a hardcoded "take damage every x strikes no matter what" effect. I personally think the entropy counter on work items is more interesting, though. The advantage of the entropy method is that you can tune hammer durability for non-smithing work first, and have it match the other tools of the same metal. But by carefully choosing the break chance number, you can also tune it perfectly to last as long as you want it to last when working metal on an anvil, no matter what its durability actually is. And it will reliably give that intended result to each player individually, without random streaks throwing it off all the time. And there is some interesting gameplay content you can implement with it as well. For example, what if ruins could drop an "masterwork smithing hammer" as loot? It would have the same stats as a normal hammer of its kind in every way, except that its break chance number would be much lower. So you could use this hammer for smithing, and it would last much longer for that specific purpose than any other comparable hammer - while still losing durability just the same if you used it to hit people or smash ore. I hope this makes sense

Thank you! As for the other two questions, I don't have a definitive answer yet, but it at least seems that wild wolves that flee on low HP will later be able to take just as much damage again as before. Well, either that, or they despawn and respawn. I can't really tell. But for now I'm operating under the assumption that animals do heal over time. Up next: Aren't Cassiterite deposits supposed to be gigantic? I found one in the second or third rock layer (depending on whether that 20-block band of bauxite qualified as a layer of its own...), and to my surprise, it barely yielded more than a single stack of ore. Which, of course, is still worth a ton of bronze, due to the mixture ratio. But these are amounts I've seen from some surface copper deposits. Considering every guide and wiki page makes a big deal about how rare but large Cassiterite is supposed to be, that was kinda underwhelming. Is this the usual size, and my expectations are just wrong? Or did I get really unlucky?

As a followup to what I said yesterday, I had some time in the evening to playtest a few actual ingame numbers. Keep in mind this is just a suggestion; you don't have to take it if you're happy with the way it works right now. Your mod and all - - - Current setup is 8x ash at 3% each (24% total) converting into 1x white potash at 60%. I think this could be improved upon, because a.) game design best practice recommends not having a renewable resource match the best nonrenewable resource in capability; and b.) the value of ash is so low that using it as-is doesn't justify the resource investment to produce it; and c.) the majority of the value of white potash is produced in the second step, which costs zero resource investment beyond the one-time cost of a bucket and a barrel. Ergo: I recommend lowering the value of white potash to something in the 40%-50% range. This leaves it comparable to saltpeter, which is also a nonrenewable resource. However, it is not the best nonrenewable resource. It is also found primarily in areas where wood is scarce, and wood scarcity makes white potash a less ideal choice, giving saltpeter a leg up in the direct competition for people who settle in those areas. At the same time, the value of ash can be increased, and potentially the production process adjusted, so that the majority of the value is produced during the resource-intensive first step. For example, instead of a 4:1 ash to water ratio, you could use a 3:1 ratio. Now only six ash convert into one white potash instead of eight, meaning each ash can have a larger relative value of its own. As a side benefit, a stack of 64 ash can now be used for a 60 ash / 20 liters mix, instead of the current, awkward 40 ash / 10 liters that barely even uses the barrel. The value of ash can be doubled to 6%, or even a smidgen higher to 7%. That makes it actually an option in the earlygame, although it still requires a major investment of wood (both as input and as fuel) and player time (both procuring wood and repatedly re-fertilizing fields). It would be something you'd use if you found yourself settled in a low-fertility area with lots of forest and for some reason were disinclined to relocate. At the bottomline you'd have 6x 6% = 36%, turning into 1x 40%-45%; or maybe 6x 7% = 42%, turning into 1x 45%-50%. And though it seems like you barely get anything out of the white potash step, this is not true; you do get a few extra percent for free, and you get convenience. You get to apply one batch of fertilizer and walk away for a month instead of re-doing it every 2-3 days. In this setup, the white potash is ultimately weaker than in its current iteration, but it also requires less input wood, and less total player time, and the barrel operation is more convenient.

Oooooh. Control-click. I didn't try that because that never really does anything, most of the time. Figures that this would be the one exception Anyways, it worked! Many thanks!

Nuts, I just noticed I misclicked on the wrong subforum when I posted this. If a friendly mod comes by, feel free to move it. @EnigmaticWonder - How? There's only one bucket in the game - the wooden one - and it won't let me place water. I can only scoop some water up to place into barrels.

After digging up some farmland in order to replace it with something better, the adjacent water trench is full of "flowing" water. It was perfectly still before. I replaced the soil blocks exactly as they were before. And yet, it turned out like this. I really, really dislike random flowing water where it shouldn't be. Especially in the middle of my base. Is there some way I can give myself some water blocks I can stuff in the trench to make the flowing water go away? I'm in singleplayer, so all server commands are available to me. But I can't seem to figure out how to word the command so that it finds the water block.

Bug report: - All of the logs have a "baking" temperature of 300°C. Except oak at 200°C (hit the wrong key?) and birch at 800°C (copypasta from burn temperature?).

Not sure that's the best way to go. Iron is (currently) endgame content, and generally takes people far longer to reach than obtaining high-output farmland. I've only just found my first cassiterite after 20 hours in my singleplayer world, and I have four 12-block terra preta farmland plots by now. As the purpose of fertilizer is primarily to help with lower-grade farmland, that means it should be available relatively early, not gated into the iron age. Primitive Technology also regularly works with wood ash using clay pots and stone age tools, zero metal of any kind, so there's no practical limitation here. In my personal opinion, there's enough other crafting mechanics that clay pots could do (like rendering fat into tallow) that it would be well worth Tyron's time to make the pots more flexible under the hood. I guess we can only cross our fingers and hope Gameplay-wise, I would much rather be able to work with an inferior fertilizer relatively early, than wait a long time to get something that is as good as something else that is also difficult and time-intensive to obtain. Why have both items fill the same niche? Vintage Story's mineral potash is a limited-access, technically nonrenewable resource. It should be the clear king of K fertilizers. Your white potash is an easily-accessed, infinitely renewable resource; it should be clearly inferior, even if real life perhaps disagrees. We're playing a game here, after all. So I'd rather see something like wood ash being 10% and white potash being 30% where mineral potash is 60%, than white potash being too similar to mineral potash for comfort and then gated behind some lategame mechanic or resource in order to keep it balanced. A low-grade fertilizer can still be quite effective. Consider flax, which requires K nutrient. Everyone will agree that it's a key resource. String and cloth do so many important things, and there are no real alternatives. So flax it is. The stone age player will likely plant it on medium farmland, as that can be reliably obtained where terra preta takes time and luck to collect in any useful quantities. And when you do plant flax on medium farmland, you'll find that the first seven or eight out of nine stages grow reasonably well, while the last one or two stages stall for days and days on end because the K nutrient concentration fell too low. It would just take a small bit extra to make it all the way. Even a low-performance K fertilizer will have a tangible impact on flax farming, especially if it is renewable and easily accessed. So it doesn't actually need to be competitive with mineral potash as a high-end solution in order to have its niche.

Out of curiosity, would it be possible to implement the lye cooking in a pot? It would feel more immersive than just effectively pouring the stuff into the fire. Of course, pots already have the meal code attached to them, so I don't know if you can even give them a recipe that doesn't follow the meal format... If it's possible, the output item could be a pot you can place and rightclick with an empty hand to take the white potash from, whole stack at once.

Wenn du Admin bist, verwende das Kommando /worldconfig temporalStability false Das schaltet die Spielmechanik rund um temporale Instabilität komplett aus. Sie selektiv nur in eurem Gebiet auszuschalten geht leider nicht. Aber ihr könntet sie mit demselben Kommando auch wieder auf "true" stellen, wenn ihr z.B. auf Höhlentour geht oder so.

As the elefant says, I now have additional questions. Usually when I break light mud bricks with an empty hand, I get the block back. Twice now, I did not get it back. But that's like, twice out of a hundred. Is there such a thing as a small chance to lose a block if you don't use a tool? Or did I encounter a bug? If animals flee after being injured, and I leave them alone, do they heal back up to full over time? If I leave mature crops and ripe berry bushes standing around, will they eventually go bad and wilt?

When ingame, press C to bring up your character sheet. On it, you will find a value that, if not yet translated, will say. "Satiety: xxxx / 1500". As Sparkle Kitti said, this corresponds to the green bar to the right of the glowy cogwheel on the bottom of the screen. You can think of it as your stomach contents. Eat food to refill it. The character sheet also shows four different kinds of "Nutrition". This is how healthy you have been eating recently. The higher these four levels, the higher your maximum HP will be. Eat a variety of different foods in order to get all sorts of nutrition.

Thanks, I shall investigate keybinds and dummies.

...but no, none of them are "how do I punch tree" Instead, I'd like to know: If I create a world smaller than the default 1 million by 1 million blocks, what does that do - other than cut off the world at those distances? Does it compress the biome generator so that biomes are smaller and closer together? Can I still "get everything" on a really small map, such as find all the stone types, get all the backstory hints, and see all the different biomes/areas? Does Vintage Story also work in "chunks" like Minecraft does? If so, how big are the chunks, and can I display chunk borders in the game? Related: how far away can I be for crops to still grow, charcoal to still process, and other such things that happen on their own over time? Is there any better way to fire clay products than one by one in a firepit? Those shingles I want for my roof are killing me... EDIT: If I "charge up" a bow or spear for a ranged attack, does that only affect the accuracy? Or does the damage also scale with how far it was "charged"?

@Tim Haucke Your problem is completely different from mine. But it is also much easier to fix: in the "interface" section of the options menu, there is a slider you can use to increase the size of the user interface. Have fun :)

Perhaps land claimed areas could be made to have reduced or eliminated wild animal spawns. it makes sense if you think about it - most animals will tend to avoid civilized, populated areas. Drifter spawns would not be affected, as they are actively invading. Might be something for the suggestion forum.

Can confirm, the text quality is better in windowed mode. However, the game is still working in 1080p internally and giving me an interpolated image. I can easily see this in the dimensions of the screenshots I take. It's basically a tradeoff between somewhat improved (but not optimal) image quality in return for always having the taskbar in my view. I don't know what you can do either, I'm afraid =/ Game engine programming is way above my paygrade. All I know is that this is the first game I've ever seen reacting this way - so there's got to be something that every other game does different, right? If there's any additional tests I can do, or other things I might assist you with, I'm happy to help.