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Ashery

Vintarian
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Ashery last won the day on May 12 2022

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Community Answers

  1. There are actually a few more potential sources of lime: Besides limestone and seashells, chalk is another type of sedimentary rock that can be ground into lime. Marble can be used as well, and it can be found in metamorphic layers (Phyllite and slate). Borax is your final option, and it's an ore that spawns in sedimentary layers. If you don't get lucky with nearby limestone or chalk layers, borax is probably the most reliable option as it can spawn in any sedimentary layer besides bauxite and you can find it with the propick. In terms of finding limestone or chalk, it largely comes down to a matter of luck and covering a lot of distance, as the rock layers can be absolutely massive. You can utilize some knowledge of the game mechanics to help narrow things down a bit (Granite top layer? Keep moving. Basalt? Might be worth checking a cave to see what the next layer is, but if that next layer's andesite, keep moving. Claystone? Peak into a cave and see what's underneath.), but how far you travel ultimately comes down to luck.
  2. Currently running around five. Bullseye is the one that changes the gameplay the most and is also the one I'll pretty much refuse to play without. I prefer to play with larger world heights, but the base game's terrain generation doesn't do well above the default settings, so another mod's needed here. I've never been a fan of dropping all items upon death and getting hit with a 10min timer to loot your stuff before it despawns, so Player Corpse is pretty close to being mandatory. Even more so if you're playing without a map. I'm also running Immersive Item Drop, and while I definitely like the change, it's not something I need in the same way I do Bullseye or the terrain generation tweaks.
  3. If it's November, it may be too late to get bees setup on account of the low temperatures.
  4. Helve hammers can only be cast with bronze alloys, if I recall right, while they can be forged with anything bronze or higher.
  5. Ashery

    Charcoal

    It should work just fine when it's raining. Someone on the Discord may have had a similar issue yesterday, and after a bit of frustration they rebuilt the charcoal bit and it worked perfectly fine the second time.
  6. There's an option in Settings->Controls called "Mouse modifiers linked to Sneak/Sprint" that might be at play here. If that setting is turned off, enable it and you should be good to go.
  7. Pine is especially good for this. Grows quickly, solid wood yield, high seed drop chance, and can be planted fairly densely (In 1.16, I had two blocks of empty space between each tree).
  8. It's a minor display issue from using potash on soil. Potash is a permanent fertilizer, and when you use it on tilled soil, the block's name will change and appear as though its tier has upgraded (Low to medium, high to terra preta, etc). However, the soil functions as you'd expect from adding a permanent +15K nutrients; the other values remain unchanged despite the name change giving the opposite impression. The process is also not repeatable; you can add potash to medium soil to "get" high, but you cannot add potash a second time to upgrade the high to terra preta.
  9. When you throw the crock full of rot into water, the rot will float out of the crock and can be collected, at which point you can stick it in a barrel to compost.
  10. I suspect you're seeing the icon that indicates what tool mode the tool you're currently carrying is set to. The 'T' would be for the trim grass mode on the scythe and I suspect the snake-like symbol is from the prospecting pick. For tools with multiple modes, if you hit 'f' while it's equipped, you'll bring up a prompt that lets you change to a different mode. Scythes, for instance, have a second mode that causes you to remove grass in a single use instead of just trimming it.
  11. Considering that I was using the creative mode power sources, there was zero fluctuation on the input side unless I was manually making a change. I suspect that has to do with there being a minimum torque threshold for the quern/etc to run, while the actual operating speed is a combination of torque and speed. And with the massive changes to torque and speed you get with a geared up setup, let alone the oscillations you describe later, you end up getting those sudden stops you describe.
  12. If you're talking about using a large gear to boost the speed/reduce the torque, you need a lot more windmills than a baseline setup. We're talking around 4-5x as many, possibly more. Additionally, I'm recalling that helvehammers have a penalty when running at higher speeds, so their requirements are actually a bit beyond what you'd expect from the above point alone. Even when you do get sufficient power, I've noticed the speed oscillates a fair bit, or at least my most recent run with the creative power sources did.
  13. There is. Any storage container (chest, vessel, etc) or shelf will apply its decay rate modifier to the crock. This makes for the rather awkward situation of a crock on a table spoiling 4x as fast as a crock on a shelf, but it's how the game works currently.
  14. This is it. Their lunge can be almost comically absurd in its length when they're going downhill. Wolves have 14hp (female) and 15hp (male), so upgrading to tin (7.5hp) or black bronze (8hp) spears once you're able to can make a huge difference as well. Ideally black bronze for non-hunters, as a single tick of hp regen would make male wolves take three hits to kill instead of just two. I can't speak for the effectiveness of vanilla bows. Honestly, though, the best way to increase your odds of survival is to simply practice. Create a new game, turn off dropping gear on death, and use creative mode to give yourself the basic load out you want to practice with. By doing this, you completely eliminate the panic that comes with encountering wolves in a legit game where you actually have something to lose, and are able to focus exclusively on the fight at hand.
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