LadyWYT

Except that player class actually matters in regards to parts of the main story--changing it on a whim would make things more confusing, in regards to continuity. Likewise, your choice of class should be an important choice in regards to how the game plays, and not something that you can just change whenever you feel like it. Setting the class exclusive recipes rule to "false" will allow any class to craft and use any recipe--you can set this configuration either at the world's creation, or by running a command and reloading the world after creating it. I will note though that while the locust-taming ability requires a tuning spear, the ability itself is tied to the Clockmaker class, so that is the one exception to the class-exclusive rule. As noted above, there's already a way to craft anything on any class, so this kind of change isn't needed. As for the Commoner class...yes, it's lackluster, but the main purpose is to be the "vanilla" class for new players, or players that just don't really want to be dealing with extra things in their gameplay. It has no benefits, but it also has no drawbacks, so it's good for just a straightforward game, or learning the gameplay basics and figuring out what kind of playstyle you'd prefer.

Welcome to the forums! It's a gameplay balance thing, same as mushrooms = vegetable, despite actually providing protein as a primary nutrient in real life.

I'm pretty sure that's why the chapter 2 locations are placed so far away--it's not just for narrative, but to keep players from stumbling across them before they've completed chapter 1. The RA is difficult to find without the map, so it's unlikely that the player will just stumble across it(though it has happened); the chapter 2 locations are a lot more noticeable, even from a distance, in some cases. With the longer distances though, it's unlikely that most players will be stumbling across them. That being said...it doesn't really hurt the story if you do chapter 2 before chapter 1. It is possible, and the story still makes sense, although it might get a little confusing meeting a certain "old friend" and whatnot if you've not been to the Archive. That, and it's a shame to miss out on the Archive anyway...really cool place.

Fishies! Now I just need a way to catch them, and an aquarium to put them in so I can collect them all!

I'd like this too. The copper spearheads I typically end up using, at least early game, but the arrowheads I rarely bother with. In the mid-late game? Yeah I'd rather just melt that stuff down and turn it into lanterns or something else that's more useful. That way it's not cluttering up my chests and I can get some value out of it, instead of just tossing it.

Welcome to the forums! Given what one of the devs said on the matter, I doubt we'll see something like this in the vanilla game, at least in regards to more in-depth butchering. Meat smoking though, I could definitely see being added. Link to full comment:

Oh I know If the in-game plate armor was absolutely realistic regarding the movement speed, there'd be absolutely no reason to use any of the other armors in most cases. Could it be better than it is? Probably, but I also don't think it's quite as bad as others say. I agree, plus you can use the elk to stow all your luggage too. You can currently make the entire trip on foot in roughly the same time as it takes on elk, however, you're going to need a LOT more food if you do that given all the energy you'll burn while sprinting. Likewise, if you're on foot, wearing armor will slow you down, but not wearing it makes you much more vulnerable to accidental death.

This is already somewhat a thing--plate armor. The material still determines the equipment tier, however, plate armor specifically is resistant to incoming damage that is one tier higher. So steel plate armor is resistant to tier 5 damage, despite being a tier 4 armor. Likewise, copper plate will resist tier 2 damage, despite being made out of a tier 1 material. Of course, just being resistant to a higher tier attack is not quite as good as matching the tier level of the incoming attack, but it's worth bearing in mind that matching the tier level doesn't mitigate all the damage either, especially from high tier monsters. Players will still need to plan appropriately when engaging such creatures, since they can't rely on just outgearing every encounter.

I don't think it is possible, personally, though I also think that "study YouTube" has perhaps become the unfortunate default for any sort of game challenge in general, not just for Vintage Story. As a result, the moment something gets a little hard, players will go look it up online, instead of putting in a little more time and effort to figure it out themselves. That's not to say that looking things up is bad(I do this frequently), however, I do think that's probably why a lot of videogame features/challenges get complained about if they can't be solved in the first attempt. If I had to choose between the two, I'd opt for balancing around the player actually figuring things out for themselves in the gameplay. The player might make several mistakes and die a few times, but I think that's okay--it's just part of the learning process, provided that the player can easily learn from the mistakes. Vintage Story has done a really good job of balancing in that regard.

Welcome to the forums! Warm climates will cool off in winter, but won't see snow. However, I'd also note that for the default temperate start, there shouldn't be snow on the ground for 7 months either. Snow tends to arrive late November and doesn't start melting off until late March/early April. If you travel very far north or settle at altitude, the weather will be colder, so that could be a factor. The default distance is fine, in my opinion. It really sets the tone for the world and story, and it's a lot easier to take both seriously as a result. However, to my knowledge, the devs already accounted for players wanting to adjust the distances and added an option to do so. Pretty much these, in a nutshell, regarding plate armors. They're very protective, resisting higher tier damage than what other armors in their tier could withstand. However, the trade-off is that you'll be slower and not able to heal as quickly, so you'll need to be a lot more careful with your actions and positioning. I would also say that plate is a much stronger choice in multiplayer overall than in singleplayer, since in multiplayer you can have friends cover for you while you take a moment to heal. In singleplayer, plate is still good for defending your base during a temporal storm, but it's not a great choice for just going out and adventuring given the drawbacks. In all fairness, the village isn't quite finished yet either and some systems are still missing, though that should be getting resolved in 1.21 to my knowledge. It's why you can ask the innkeeper for a room, or the barber-surgeon for a haircut, but can't actually have either. Depends on your settings and playstyle, really. I would say perhaps the most important thing to focus on in the game is food supply, above all else. If you have a handle on your food supply, then everything else comes easily enough in time.

He has different animations depending on which attack he's going to do. The windup on the attacks are fairly slow, so you have a couple of seconds to react to whatever he's about to do. This is my general strategy--there's a sweet spot where you can stay close enough to him that he won't throw a tantrum and pound the ground very often, but just out of range of his swings. It's a delicate dance back and forth, and it's still somewhat a fight of attrition, especially towards the end where you need to effectively burn down the rest of his health bar before you're overwhelmed. I will also note that you can't use that strategy on the second boss. Overall, I'm inclined to agree with what @traugdor and others have said--it sounds like a change meant specifically to make this fight a bit more challenging since it was something of a joke previously. It might need a little more fine-tuning depending on how many players start dying to it after the change, but it's a fight that definitely needed a little love.

https://www.britannica.com/animal/musk-ox Well...I mean, they look like cows, but are more closely related to goats. So it's accurate.

A fair point on the lightning rod being a bad example of solder--I was thinking "videogame mechanics" but I'm not sure that would entirely fit consistently with the other recipes in the game that lean more towards realism(even if it can be a little goofy sometimes). As for being accessible early in the game...I don't think that itself is an issue, given that the materials needed for solder and a soldering iron are fairly easy to find. The chutes are a great idea! You generally need at least a handful, or more if you're going to delve deep into the automation aspect of the game. So that poor soldering iron could finally see some more use instead of being forgotten on the tool rack for eternity.

I would agree here. When I first picked up Vintage Story, I struggled a lot too making the leaps from stone age to copper, and it could be frustrating at times. However, that struggle is the reason why getting those first metal tools(and later upgrades) feels so rewarding; the player has to work at it a bit to get them(but not unfairly so), and the tools open up a lot of gameplay that wasn't really feasible before. The stone age might be pretty basic, but it's supposed to be in order to push the player to progress. That being said, players vary in playstyle preferences, and not everyone enjoys the default. As @Echo Weaver noted, you might consider trying out some mods to alter the portions of gameplay you don't find that fun or find lacking. Aside from mods, you might also try cranking up the ore spawn rates in the world generation tab when first creating the world; doing so will ensure that copper, tin, and other minerals are much easier to find. I'd also throw out Ancient Tools as a mod you might be interested in trying. It adds a lot of useful little things for earlier stages of the game, including an alternate leathermaking process(very useful if you don't have access to lime or borax). For traps and snares, you'll want to look into Primitive Survival, though it adds a lot more than just those things.

Looking at your screenshot, I'd say it's the upper eyelashes/eyelids. On the old face, the rest higher on the eye, giving the eyes a wider, more friendly appearance. On the new faces, the lashes/lids rest lower, so the eyes have a more heavy-lidded bored/snarky/angry expression to them since they aren't opened as wide. That's not the say the eyebrows aren't playing a factor too, but I think adjusting the eyelids first would improve quite a lot.

At a glance, I like the looks of them. The colors seem crisper and there's more subtle detail that wasn't there before. I think the biggest difference is the addition of proper eyelashes, along with a slight rounding of the pupils and adjustment of pupil highlights.

StepUp I don't really care about as a feature, however, it would be a nice accessibility addition for those who can't/don't want to just hit the spacebar every time. I'm guessing it would also be easier to add code for something like StepUp, than it would be to try to change worldgen to use half-slab dirt or the like. If there's a zoom option added, I'd prefer it be something like this, and not just a key press. A key press might be handy, but it's not very immersive. A spyglass could be made reasonably cheap and fairly early in the game if you know what you're doing(copper/brass and glass), and is a very immersive way of handling such a feature. You could also upgrade it later, perhaps, by building special Jonas goggles or some other Jonas tech gadget. Not only could that have a stronger zoom feature than the spyglass, but such an item could also be equipped in a cosmetic slot, so you never have to worry about leaving it at home by accident.

In all fairness, this isn't just force of habit. The hitboxes on bears are a bit broken; they can sit right on top of you, so that you're clipped into the hitbox. When that happens, you can't hit them(because you're clipped inside the bear's model), but the bear can still hit you. It's why bears are so frustrating to fight, even when you have really good armor, and also why it's a good idea to kite them around in a tight circle. It's a lot harder for them to sit on top of you when you maneuver that way.

It kind of depends on how much hunting and foraging one wants to do. I ended up playing with 30-day months when I started out, since I wanted a lot of extra time before the big scary winter arrived to learn the other gameplay and explore. To compensate, I planted a lot of farmland as well. Of course, turns out winter wasn't as bad as I thought, so I ended up going back to the standard month length in later worlds.

I think there was a proper chimney block that was recently added, that is considered airtight but will let smoke escape. So I'm not sure that bit is an issue. Logical questions that follow if smoke damage is added for realism. Personally, I'm not a fan of mechanics like this. I didn't enjoy it in Valheim, and I doubt I'd enjoy such things here. While it's maybe not the most realistic thing ever, it's nice to be able to build the fireplace however I'd like, in a way that looks functional, but not actually have to worry about engineering it to make sure the room won't get smoky.

By the end of the first day I have my pit kilns firing cookware, a storage vessel, and the molds I'll need for metalworking. I'll have a reed chest or two for other storage as well. From there, I go exploring and mark anything useful that I find, returning to collect the copper bits I've found in order to get my first pick and hammer. After that, I'll go mine the deposits so that I can cast an anvil and a few ingots for a chisel, saw, and shears. However, if I get lucky and find a surface tin deposit that's big enough, I'll skip copper and go straight for a bronze anvil and tools. If I'm getting really unlucky with my ore deposits, I'll pan for what copper I need. While working on copper and bronze, I'll also start my farms and leatherworking, provided there's a source of lime or borax to work with. If there are animals nearby that can be domesticated, I'll try to herd them into a pen and start that process too. Otherwise, after getting bronze I focus on getting to iron and steel as quickly as possible, as it's much easier to focus on building and decorating if I have good equipment. As for the story...I usually don't worry about it until I have iron, at least. I like to take my time doing stuff, for the most part, and iron is easy enough to get that I don't really see a point in relying on bronze unless I really want that challenge.

Hmmm...in that case, what about organizing events like harvesting the crops, or crafting medical supplies, or cooking the community meals, etc? After all, while the scouts are out exploring the wilderness and the warriors are dealing with threats, someone's got to be at home keeping them supplied and patching them back up if they return injured. That gives the more passive players a way to be involved with the storyline in a way they'll enjoy, without needing to risk their characters. Plus it lets the more aggressive players focus more on the combat and risk-taking, instead of needing to do chores they may find dull. Just a suggestion, I dunno how feasible it is for what you have going.

I don't agree with everything in OP's post, but overall it's decent advice for players new to Vintage Story. The learning curve is rather steep, and the early game enemies like wolves are no exception. It may seem harsh that they can kill a player so quickly, however, the wolf has a rather important role in teaching players the game. By default, Vintage Story doesn't pull its punches, and wolves will quickly teach the player some important survival tips. First and foremost, players need to be prepared(whether it's through skill or better equipment) before they go trying to deal with threats; they can't go diving into a fight underequipped and expect to come out unscathed...at least not without a really good plan(such as trapping an enemy in a hole). Secondly, letting enemies be credible threats pushes players to be more aware of their surroundings, as getting ambushed can easily have lethal consequences. Wolves tend to howl a lot, which makes them easy for players to avoid until they're ready to deal with them, provided that the player is paying attention that is. I think I've seen as many as five in one spot, but that's a fairly rare occurrence. Typically it's one to three, as you said. I'd expect to see a spyglass added to the game sooner or later, as a more immersive option for this kind of feature. I would also add potentially setting creatures to neutral/passive, whichever option makes them ignore you until attacked(I forgot which is which). That way they're still dangerous, but it's entirely up to the player when they deal with opponents. Likewise, I also recommend potentially setting a grace period for monster spawns--that way the player is guaranteed a certain window of safety before they have to start dealing with monsters. Rifts will still spawn, of course, but they won't be producing monsters until that grace period is up. Personally, I wouldn't touch healing rate, hunger rate, or food spoilage, unless the player REALLY wants to. The default values are quite fair, and if player HP is set to max that gives quite a lot of room for mistakes to be made. I mean...I'm American as well, and the names make sense to me. I'm nitpicking this just a bit, but lamellar is a specific type of armor, same as chain, plate, brigandine, etc. So the armor piece is aptly named. I'd also wager it's named that due to being in the same general stat class as the other lamellar armors. As for looking up these armors to give an edge on early game survival...yes, absolutely! Once you have more experience in the game, it's easy to skip over them entirely, as the benefits you get aren't really worth what it takes to craft it. However, while early armor might not prevent that much damage or be very durable, it can be the difference between life and death. The player doesn't need to keep the shield equipped at all times--just when they think they might run into trouble. That saves a bit on the energy cost. As for the tutorial, it could be better, but the main purpose is to teach the player about the basic controls and how to acquire the tools they'll need to achieve everything else in the game. From there, it's up to the player to figure out the best way to proceed in the game(which will vary depending on map generation and playstyle preferences). A player should be able to survive a couple of hits on default settings, provided they're at full health. Nerd poles aren't required for survival, but they can be a useful way to deal with wolves and bears. If the player reacts fast enough, it is possible to outrun wolves and most bears(provided it's not a polar bear or brown bear)--the player is usually able to navigate the terrain much better and the predators will give up the chase if you get far enough away. Agreed--preparing yourself and going into a fight on your own terms is pretty much the key to surviving Vintage Story combat. Did you mean to say "Keep Items on Death" instead of "Drop Items on Death"? The latter is the default setting; I would recommend changing it to "Keep Items on Death" for new players. It's not hard to replace lost items in the early game, however, keeping your items in spite of death makes the game feel much more forgiving of your mistakes. I played with that setting when I first began Vintage Story, and later changed the death penalty to drop items, once I was confident enough in my own skills for it to not pose an issue. I will also note that you will never drop worn items on death, so you don't need to worry about losing your armor or that cool cosmetic thing you found, provided that you're wearing it. For monster spawns, they will only spawn on the surface if there is a rift nearby and the light level is dark enough, outside of a temporal storm that is. Rift activity is variable, so some nights might be entirely peaceful and others might be full of monsters(and that activity can change at any time). Lighting up an area will reduce spawn chances, if not make it impossible for monsters to spawn(outside of a temporal storm). However, the best lighting option--the lantern--typically isn't feasible until the mid game. Torches are probably the best early game lighting since they're cheap, but they will burn out after 48 hours unless placed in a torch holder(or you can break and replace them to reset the timer). Oil lamps don't burn out, but also don't offer much light--they offer just enough to see what you're doing, but won't really prevent monster spawns. I agree with this if a player wants to keep the surface threats more natural, and leave the monsters to the underground. However, if it's just a factor of the unpredictability of surface monster spawns being a bit overwhelming, I'd recommend setting a grace timer instead. That way, the rifts will function as intended, but the player has some time to get used to their presence and prepare before the rifts will actually be particularly dangerous. Eh, it's a personal preference. The default settings are fine, in my opinion. Early tools aren't durable, that is true, however they're very cheap and easy to craft. The low durability pushes the player to seek better materials and advance themselves, instead of becoming too comfortable with the easiest solution. For clearing brush, I'd recommend crafting a set of shears. They clear out a lot of brush at once, while greatly increasing the drop rate of sticks and tree seeds. Of course, they're a little more effort to craft than an axe, but they're much better at the job. It's not much of a spoiler hence why I'm not gating this behind a spoiler, but you don't NEED to trap wolves and bears in a pit to deal with them. Pit traps are incredibly useful, yes, but it's fairly easy to avoid hostile wildlife by paying attention to one's environment and taking a good look around every so often(and not charging blindly into dense brush when you can avoid it). As for the respawn rate...generally hostile wildlife won't respawn immediately, but it does happen sometimes. I don't think that's intended behavior though, and will likely be fixed in the future. Generally, the hostile wildlife will respawn after a few to several days, typically in the same general spots so it's easy to either avoid them, or build traps to help deal with them if you don't wish to confront them head-on. One piece of advice I don't see mentioned--if playing with temporal stability enabled, make sure that teal gear is spinning clockwise or motionless when picking a spot to build your base. If it's spinning clockwise, the area is stable, which is good! If it's motionless, the area is either neutral, or it's stable and the gear isn't spinning because you're already at 100% stability--still a good scenario. If the gear is spinning counter-clockwise though, the area is unstable and you don't want to settle down there, as spending long periods of time in such areas isn't good for your health. It's fine if part of your base is in an unstable area; you just don't want the entire base to be unstable, as you'll need a spot to recover stability lost from temporal storms and underground expeditions.

No, you're right. The generation of the male animal doesn't matter--the offspring will be whatever the mother's generation was, plus one. However, it's still a good idea to cull the males every once in a while, in favor of a higher generation animal, so that your animals aren't as aggressive/scaredy.

It doesn't exist for every game, but it's essentially a hub for players to upload mods and blueprints for various games. Like, if one wanted to mod Skyrim, they can go to the workshop page and subscribe to the mods they like, and Steam installs those mods for them. Planet Zoo utilizes the workshop to let players upload their build blueprints, so that other players can download them and use the schematic in their own worlds. Essentially, it's Steam's version of an official mod database, I think, but it covers more than just mods.