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LadyWYT

Vintarian
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Everything posted by LadyWYT

  1. https://wiki.vintagestory.at/Shears It is vanilla. You don't get a ridiculous amount of seeds, but it's a bit more than what you'd get breaking all the leaves by hand.
  2. Nah, they just go dormant when it gets too cold out.
  3. Just a small tip in regards to salt--if you're having troubles finding a salt deposit, you can always buy salt from commodities or survival goods traders. It'll cost you a few gears, of course, but it can help jumpstart your food preserving endeavors.
  4. Welcome to the forums! What version are you playing on, and are you using mods? In 1.21, the cookpot now tells you whether or not you have a valid recipe with the ingredients you added; since there's no such readout here, I'm guessing you are probably still on 1.20. In any case, I agree with @Arasine, the combination of berries and mushrooms is the most likely culprit. Removing one or the other should produce a viable porridge recipe. If you're still not getting a viable recipe after that, but are using mods, then I would suspect a mod issue.
  5. They don't have 100% accuracy though, unless you're standing still. Bowtorn are very easy to dodge if you start moving just after hearing the warning screech--duck behind cover or dart out of the way, doesn't matter as both are viable options. Drifters are a little better at aiming than bowtorns are, since drifters tend to lead their targets and bowtorn do not. That being said, you can still dodge incoming rocks, if you have good timing. I will also note that while the rock throwing can be irritating sometimes, there are situations where you want the drifters to be throwing rocks. A good example of this is what happened to me and my friend in a recent temporal storm; we didn't have armor or good weapons, so we hid inside where it was safe. Well, a double-headed drifter happened to spawn in the room we were hiding in. Since it chose to throw a rock as its first move, we were able to get a couple paces away from it and poke it to death with spears. If it had opted for a melee attack though, one(or both) of us would have most likely died.
  6. I think that's more just due to weather systems and chunk loading/updating being a bit rough around the edges. Yeah, that might work. I have seen wild elk a handful of times, but they do seem to be somewhat of a rare find.
  7. Shears greatly increase the drop rates of both sticks and tree seeds--you're supposed to use shears on the leaves first before cutting the tree in order to get the most resources. By doing so, you'll be getting tree seeds at a high enough drop rate to both sustain and slowly expand a forest. Seed drop rate also depends heavily on the type of tree in question. Common trees like pine and birch tend to drop more seeds than ebony or purpleheart. Ebony and purpleheart are much more rare since you can make the best crates out of them(more storage slots compared to other crate types). Likewise, the rarity is also to prevent players from doing like the other block game and just getting one seed for a tree like this, taking it home, and having an entire forest's worth of ebony/purpleheart with little effort. Walnuts are probably the only tree I'd agree needs a bit of tweaking. I think in this case, there ought to be a walnut seed and edible walnut items, so you can have a seed or two to plant new trees while having edible walnuts at the same time. And rather than needing to chop the trees to get your nuts, you could just look around underneath walnut trees come autumn and pick up all the ripe nuts that have fallen. Keep them in the shell for long term storage, and shell them when you're ready to cook/eat them. And of course, this idea could apply to any edible nut-bearing tree, not just walnuts.
  8. You can find them in colder regions and/or at higher altitudes. Think taigas and high mountain grasslands. If you're living in a warmer climate, you'll be wanting to look at higher altitudes, but it's possible you may need to trek a decent ways north before you begin to find wild elk.
  9. Caving can be lucrative, but is very risky, especially if you don't know what you're doing. The prospecting pick is generally the safer and more reliable way to figure out where to dig for ore. In regards to iron specifically...yes and no. Iron veins are very large, so the amount you're finding isn't really anything out of the ordinary. What's more unusual is the type of iron that you found. Hematite tends to be the most common variety to find. Magnetite tends to be quite elusive, even with high prospecting readings(a prospect readout is only what could have have spawned there, not what actually did), and limonite...I only recall seeing once. In any case, it's a very nice find!
  10. For the vanilla game, you need to either buy a tamed elk from a treasure hunter trader after completing the first story chapter, or find and trap a baby elk and feed it to maturity within a year to get a partially tamed elk. You can then saddle-break the partially-tamed elk over several days to get a fully tamed elk. Tame elk purchased from the treasure hunter are already fully tamed and do not need to be saddle-broken. For mods though...you might be interested in this mod: https://mods.vintagestory.at/cervinae It's not yet updated for 1.21, so I'm not sure how well it works, but it's one to watch, and it offers a different type of deer to tame as a mount.
  11. It could be that, yes. Is there any flavor text when you mouse over the book item? Generally, lore books/scrolls have a bit of flavor text to indicate the contents(ie, someone's diary, research notes, a story passed down for others to read, etc).
  12. That sounds about right. I think even in the best conditions(ie, stored in a cellar when it's cold outside), fresh meat only lasts about a week. So if you aren't going to eat it quickly, and aren't going to compost it, best to cook it into a meal or preserve it with salt. Based on the picture, I don't see anything terribly amiss, save for maybe the hole-looking spot in the ceiling. However, I'm not sure that's an issue. What do your storage vessels read in regards to spoilage rates for stored items? My guess is the cellar is working fine, it's just the middle of summer or an otherwise hot climate that's affecting the spoilage rates. Not really much you can do about that; cellars do keep a fairly constant temperature inside year-round, but their temperature does fluctuate just a bit when the weather gets very warm.
  13. This, ironically, is why it won't help at all for a cellar, but will make a perfectly fine greenhouse if you use it as a glass substitute.
  14. Actually, this is somewhat of a thing...but reserved for specific story location events and not a general random encounter. I don't know that it's really possible or practical to implement as a random event, given the amount of work that goes into making past and present versions of the same place, in addition to enabling the ability to switch back and forth and the protections needed to prevent cheating on the puzzles. In any case, just keep playing through the main story and you'll see what I mean soon enough. I will also note that only two chapters are implemented out of a planned eight, so it's possible we could see more shenanigans like this in future story points, or concepts and puzzles as equally trippy.
  15. I'm guessing it might be a bug, since the subject has come up a couple of times. I think someone had some success by spawning in a new pickaxe and fiddling around with it until the trader completed the trade as normal.
  16. Welcome to the forums! While you may not be able to make a fur coat from bear hides, the bear hide armor you can make offers warmth as well as protection, so it's an upgrade in that sense. Plus you can equip a fur coat under the armor for even more warmth.
  17. One thing I had forgotten to mention in my initial response--Combat Overhaul was mentioned, and that's a mod that changes vanilla combat significantly. I've not played with that mod myself, but judging by the mod page, it seems to turn the combat system into something more similar to what Mount & Blade has, in that it now matters exactly where you hit the target, when/how/where you block, etc. Which in all fairness, I'm betting ranged combat is actually easier in that mod(assuming you can hit the target) due to the locational damage mechanic, in addition to just the general rule of killing something before it can reach you is a good idea(when it's possible to do so). Melee looks to be significantly more difficult in that mod since you need to actively block/parry attacks aimed at specific parts of your body in order to mitigate the damage--ie, it's trying to be much more realistic. That being said, I was speaking in terms of vanilla, since that's going to be the most useful information for the widest player variety. Mods are very fun and useful, but often change the game in very specific ways, so advice that applies to a modded game may or may not apply to a vanilla game at all. That last sentence though... Eh, I dunno, I would say that monster loot in general is mediocre...for now. The reason I chalk it up to being underwhelming is that late game tech really has been developed for Vintage Story yet, so there's really not much you can do with things like Jonas parts and temporal gears. I think late game tech is the next thing slated to be worked on though, and once more options are added I'd wager that the loot will become much more valuable. As to whether or not one enjoys temporal storms...I do agree, that is subjective. Personally, they do get on my nerves, but I still enjoy the way they are implemented since they make the world and associated lore actually feel real. The storms are intermittent looming disasters that you can't prevent; they won't destroy your base or otherwise wipe progress, but you will have to figure out how to deal with them in order to accomplish your goals. One can either play it safe and hide when a storm hits(but get no loot), or take a risk and go fight monsters to get a bit of loot for the trouble(loot that will be more valuable once more tech is added). Of course, for players who don't enjoy them, there is the option to sleep through the storms, or just disable them entirely.
  18. Sure. Basically, the falx has a chance to loot the monster when you hit it--I'm not sure what the percentage is though. You're not getting extra loot when this occurs, as the falx is simply extracting whatever goodies the monster had to drop in the first place. The looted goodies will drop to the ground, in which case you can just pick them up...provided you have inventory space. After you kill the monster, you can loot whatever goodies the falx didn't extract; in the event there are no more goodies to loot, it will just open an empty loot window and the corpse will disappear like normal when you exit the loot window.
  19. Welcome to the forums! My first thought is that it's probably a mod issue, since I've not really seen anyone reporting that kind of issue with vanilla. However, there's nothing on you list there that really looks suspect. Have you tested this list in single player to see if you can reproduce the issue? If you can reproduce it in singleplayer, then it's just a matter of turning off all the mods and adding them back in one by one, testing as you go, to see which one causes the issue.
  20. By dungeon, do you mean the underground ruins? I think there's a ruin or two that have bugged lore books, in that you can try to read the book but will get no lore entry. Otherwise, it's likely because you've already unlocked whatever lore that book had to offer, so it won't give you anything when you try to read it.
  21. Okay, no, this is absolutely not true. Blackguard is the fighter class, and for players who love melee and just being an absolute bruiser in general this class is the obvious pick. The health boost can keep you alive in situations that would kill other classes, they move faster in armor(never discount movement speed), the melee bonus lets you shred most things in close quarters combat. When it comes to the weaknesses, the ranged penalty equates to an extra shot on average to kill a target, if you rely only on range. This can be a problem early in the game for hunting, if you are a bad shot, however...you don't need to hunt at range either. Boar are quite easy to find and offer a lot of meat; they're also very easy to walk right up too and goad into a fight. If they try to flee, just chuck a spear at them to finish them off, and then enjoy the meal. Wolves you can soften up with a spear or two at range, before either goading them into a fight and finishing them off. Bears are the only ones to really worry about, but that rule applies to all classes, really, not just Blackguards. The hunger and forage penalties aren't really a problem either if you're at least halfway decent at finding food. Berries and mushrooms will keep you going easily enough, as will foxes, raccoons, boar, wolves, and whatever else isn't able to escape your hunting prowess. And of course, by the time you get a base established, with a farm and livestock, you don't really need to hunt or forage anymore. Blackguard is probably the toughest class for a new player to pick up and start playing with since they won't have the experience required to fully utilize the class strengths while mitigating the weaknesses, but it's not impossible for a new player to play a Blackguard either. They might struggle a bit more, but if that's the class they really want to play, they should play it(this is essentially how I cut my teeth in the game). Have to disagree here as well. Deserts/gravel fields are useful since surface ore is easier to spot, and there's little vegetation to obscure your vision of threats or points of interest. Oceans and large lakes allow you to utilize the sailboat, which is very useful for easy traveling or hauling lots of cargo. Swampy wetlands can have different tree types, depending on climate, and are generally a good place to find cattails and fish. Glaciers themselves even serve a purpose, since glacier ice can function like glass when building greenhouses(unless something changed in that regard). In any case, there's something useful to be found pretty much everywhere, in regards to resources. If you're judging a biome based on how pretty/good it is to settle in, that's subject to individual preferences. You can skip improvised armor entirely, provided you have the skill. Iron chain is okay, but expensive. The only reason I can think of to craft iron chain, aside from looks or collecting all the armors, is to preserve a bit of extra accuracy. Otherwise, brigandine is a better option for this tier--it's a bit less protective, but it also costs less. If you just need something to tide you over until steel, brigandine will do just fine for your heavier fighting. Gambeson is the best general purpose armor; ideal for exploring the surface or wearing around your base, but it won't hold up very well for heavier fighting. For the steel tier, chain is one of the better choices, but again, it boils down to personal preference and the demands of your situation. Plate armor is generally the most ideal for base defense, since you'll have ready access to plenty of food, as well as safe spots to take a respite and heal. I will also note that plate armor tends to be a more attractive choice for Blackguards, since it doesn't slow them down as much. Falx has an autoloot feature, when it comes to fighting monsters. Likewise, there will be situations where melee is stronger than ranged, especially if you're exploring underground or run out of ammunition. For more dangerous enemies, a solid general strategy is to soften them up a bit at range, and then finish them off in melee should they close the gap. Shields are good at soaking up a lot of incoming damage...provided that you're actually facing the attacker and blocking properly. The passive block feature is most useful against incoming projectiles, but won't do much against melee hits. Active blocking will mitigate both ranged and melee attacks significantly, but unlike passive blocking you need to actually crouch in order to raise your shield and actively block. The better the shield, the more damage that gets mitigated. Even crude shields have their place, since they can mitigate enough damage to allow you to survive a fight that might have killed you otherwise. As for the off-hand hunger penalty...you only need to equip your shield when you expect trouble, so the hunger penalty isn't an issue.
  22. You don't need to stand still to apply bandages; you can do so while moving. What will interrupt bandaging, aside from switching slots, is falling for longer than a second. I made some notes on the new mechanic, which you can find here(the only thing I didn't/haven't covered there is armor penalties): That's not to say that the Resonance Archive won't need a little tuning. Judging from what I've seen lurking around Github, it seems the devs are looking into the balancing and may tweak some of the changes, but there's no promises that the mechanic will be rebalanced either. I wouldn't say never, so much as I would rarely. Sometimes you can go toe-to-toe, trade blows, and survive, but doing so hinges heavily on game settings, player skill, and sheer luck. Generally, it's a better idea to avoid what damage you can, and mitigate the damage you can't avoid as much as possible. Healing should really be a last resort, and with the new healing mechanics you'll probably want to apply bandages a little earlier, when they're needed, instead of waiting until the last moment.
  23. .charsel or /player yourname allowcharselonce should allow you to switch your class, as well as your appearance. /worldconfig playerHealthPoints should allow you to adjust your base health amount--just enter an appropriate number in that command and then reload, the changes should apply. It's worth noting that by default, the base health is 15 hp. Filling your nutrition bars will add +2.5 hp for each bar you fill. I will note that class health penalties(or penalties in general) aren't enough to really stop the class from playing the game normally. Generally, the penalties usually end up meaning you might die where others might live, might miss the occasion drops, or might need an extra hit to kill something. Of course, how detrimental a penalty is also depends on one's playstyle. To be fair, you can go caving without a lot of gear, but you really have to know what you're doing since it's incredibly risky to do so. Generally it's better to wait until you have a bit of gear and healing supplies before venturing in--the deeper you delve the better equipped you'll need to be. As for why things get more dangerous the deeper you go...there are lore reasons, that are currently not fully explained, but there are enough tidbits for players to discover and draw their own conclusions from. It's very likely, yes. If you have a bronze pick and a bronze anvil, you have the equipment needed to mine and work iron(which is more involved than copper or bronze working). Of course, there's nothing wrong with making bronze armor either; it depends entirely on one's preferred playstyle and the current game conditions. For earlier armors, bear armor is a solid choice, if you're brave enough to hunt them. Gambeson takes a lot of flax to make, but offers some of the best protection and utility in terms of general use armor. Lamellar is probably the best choice for early metal armor; while not as protective as other metal armors, it's much cheaper in terms of cost. The good news is that tin isn't particularly hard to find, as it's a more common ore spawn, so checking lower prospecting readings is more worth it. You can also combine bismuth and zinc ore with copper to make bismuth bronze, or silver and gold with copper to get black bronze. If you're having trouble locating an ore deposit, tin, bismuth, and zinc are also sold by commodities traders, and survival goods traders as well(I think). It'll cost you a few gears, but you can earn gears easily enough by just selling some things to the local traders when you can.
  24. Not really. While story locations do seem to have set stability parameters(ie, some locations are stable, while others aren't), all you really miss by turning the stability mechanic off is a little extra flavor. You won't miss any actual story bits themselves. Temporal stability is mostly just there to help flavor the setting and provide additional challenge.
  25. Welcome to the forums! Not to knock the class choice, but part of the difficulty here could be due to picking Malefactor, as it's perhaps the weakest in combat(penalties to health, melee damage, and range of fire). That doesn't mean that Malefactor can't succeed in combat at all, just that combat is where that particular class is going to struggle the most since it's optimized for stealth and gathering. Tin bronze chainmail is tier 2 equipment, so it will keep you fairly safe from bears, wolves, and other tier 2 enemies, but you won't be entirely immune either as they can still kill you if they attack you long enough. Keep in mind too that armor is only effective as long as it has durability remaining--if it's broken it will need to be repaired before it can offer protection. Likewise, armor only protects the portion of the body relevant to its particular armor slot, so if you only have bronze chainmail in the body slot, it will mitigate incoming hits to your body but not your head or legs. Granted, your body is the easiest part of you to hit, so if you need to mix armor types its best to equip your strongest armor in this slot. If you picked Malefactor just for easier ranged options, you might try Hunter instead. Hunters have a boost to ranged damage, as well as more options for early ranged weaponry(spears are still pretty much king though) that are easily crafted. Or you could turn off class-exclusive recipes and just craft all the things. It sounds like you're approaching Vintage Story mining like the other block game's mining; the two don't work the same. In Vintage Story, you want to stay out of the caves unless you're prepared, since the underground is dangerous. For mining, it's better to find a good mineral reading with your prospecting pick, and then dig a shaft straight down until you hit ore. Node search on the pro-pick will alert you to any ore veins nearby, and using ladders will ensure that you can navigate the shaft safely(not possible to fall off ladders unless you move off the ladder block). For enemy spawns underground, the deeper you go the higher the tier. Tier 3 tends to start showing up around Y level 40-50, I think, while Tier 4 shows up around Y level 30ish and below. Essentially, you need to be REALLY deep to find the really nasty stuff, but the lower tiers can kill just as easily if you get too complacent. I'll also note that more enemies spawn underground when rift activity is higher, so save your caving trips for days of calm or low activity when possible. Metal tiers are one thing you cannot skip, in regards to progression. You'll need a bronze anvil to work iron, and an iron anvil to work meteoric iron and steel.
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