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williams_482

Vintarian
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williams_482 last won the day on July 17

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Steel Worker

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  1. I enjoy the process of building up to steel, and once I have it obviously I should use it. Falx and pickaxe get priority (more damage, access to new ores), then armor (going up a tier makes a big difference against the really nasty enemies), then other tools. If building the cementation furnace and fueling it sounds like a chore instead of a rewarding task, meteoric iron is easier to work with an still a great option for just about anything.
  2. Not to detract from the larger point, but this actually is the reason why we have a number of non-functional ores like uranium in the base game. It's explicitly to avoid the classic minecraft modpack problem of having three different types of copper, aluminum, etc all competing for space in the same heavily modded world.
  3. Mods not spawning with an artificial light level over 7 is vanilla behavior. Bringing a big pile of torches to light up caves and a bunch of blocks to wall off caves you already explored and found nothing in/already looted is a good way to keep monster spawns under control.
  4. For inspiration on how these could look, Minecraft's Create mod has fantastic visual aids for demonstrating how it's structures and machines function. Something along those lines could be incorporated into the handbook to show multi-block structures, especially those like charcoal pits and pit kilns that don't show an in-world structure outline like the beehive kiln and cementation furnace do.
  5. I wholeheartedly endorse this idea. Excellent easter egg. As an accompanying mechanic, it might be nice if we could craft a clay tablet that can be written on with a stick, as an in-game means of passing messages to other players. Much cheaper than a book (costs one clay in the crafting grid), but not reusable (the tablet can be written and rewritten until it dries out, which takes 24 hours, at which point whatever was last written there is locked in) and with a much smaller capacity. This of course would be the medium for the scavenged customer complaint.
  6. Not having a 100% reliable way to stop your gen 5 sheep from being randomly eaten by bears inside their barn except through constant patrolling sounds like absolutely miserable gameplay.
  7. Seems you're beyond the point of any help save /gm c. If this happens again, try blowing the flute repeatedly and further away. If you're right in front of your elk it's probably not going to think teleporting to you is necessary.
  8. My general rule for roads is this: - if it's a trip I only plan to make once or twice, just go. Expect to cover ~4-6km per day (assuming no snow and roughly 12 hours daylight) on foot, 8-12 depending on terrain with an elk (and a bone flute!). - if it's a long distance trip (thousands of blocks, such as to a story location or down south) which I expect to make multiple times, I'll cut a path through forests, bridge over inconvenient pits and ponds, and find passes around/between mountains when possible, marked intermittently with packed dirt pillars at prominent spots and anywhere the path changes direction. This ensures I have a trail which an elk can easily traverse at full speed regardless of local terrain, which I find can cover ~14km per day. - if it's a medium distance trip (<2km) I expect to make frequently, such as visiting specific traders, translocators, or a coastal base/dock if my main base is inland, I'll first clear a road as described above, and eventually come back to put down a two wide gravel path. This gives a speed boost to me and the elk alike (the elk is too wide to benefit from a single block wide path) as well as making the path more visible both in world and on the map, especially during the winter. I'm guessing an elk can manage ~16km per day on a two wide gravel path with minimal turns, but it's so rarely practical to make a paved road that long. - If it's a short trip (a few dozen to maybe a hundred blocks) I do regularly at a place I expect to be a permanent base, I'll pave it as soon as I have the time and resources to do so.
  9. It depends and nothing has been announced, so nobody really knows. Even the developers themselves are probably unsure at this stage. There may be a minor version release sprung on us with no warning, but best not to expect that. Based on past release schedules we will probably get 1.23 some time this fall or winter but don't take that estimate too seriously either.
  10. The conflation of AI-based tools like the one described (which have been extremely useful for many different research-related tasks since well before ChatGPT became a happening thing), and the "AI" LLM chatboxes/image generations which have some technical similarities but far more ethical issues and societal dangers attached, is quite unfortunate and largely a product of grossly irresponsible marketing tactics by these "AI" companies. Vintage Story could implement this, call it "diffusion-based terrain generation", not refer to it as "AI" anywhere, and be fine: most people who will recognize this as the product of an AI tool will understand what that does and doesn't mean well enough not to flip out about it.
  11. "Half plate" usually refers to almain rivet, a "just the important stuff" stripped down version of plate armor which included a helmet, chest- and back-plates, pauldrons for shoulder and upper arm protection, and tassets to protect the hips and waist. It was designed to be the most cost effective way to armor large numbers of soldiers, maximizing the amount of protection relative to the material and labor costs required to produce it. This was an extremely popular armor choice in the 15th and 16th centuries, contemporary to the classic but much more expensive full-plate knight armor already in the game. Note that this armor does not skimp on back protection, and nor do the vast majority of historical armors which include chestplates. Back protection is extremely important! There's a whole lot of vulnerable organs which can be damaged by an attack from behind, and although soldiers would virtually never have their backs to an opponent while the battle was going well, if it went poorly the losers would usually wind up backs to and running away. Fleeing soldiers becoming extra vulnerable to projectiles or pursuers is no help to them or to their ruler/employer, who wants them alive and able to fight another day. Further, there's very little mobility cost to this back protection: that part of the torso doesn't need to move much anyway, and it's a part of the body where the added weight is manageable. Where almain rivet does skimp on protection is the arms and legs, which are much more difficult for an enemy to target and benefit more from retaining mobility than the head, torso, shoulders, and hips. It's common for modern artistic portrayals of premodern armor to present a chestplate as a relatively flat, forward-mounted piece which doesn't protect the sides or back. I.e. a plate over the chest. Not an unreasonable interpretation of the word, but not an accurate one. Most real chestplates were much closer to tubes than flat plates, with both front and back protection which wraps all the way around to cover the sides as well.
  12. If the elk is responding, it's surprising that it won't teleport when it fails to reach you. How close were you, and how many times did you blow the flute for it? For more mundane situations where it makes an unsuccessful attempt to path to me first (such as when I am underground) I find that the elk will get as close to me as it can by conventional means, then when I play the flute again realize it cannot get closer by walking and will teleport. In cases where the elk could reach me but needs a long time to do so, such as when it's ~100 blocks away on easy terrain, I can only get it to teleport by running further away (outpacing the elk) and playing the flute again as I run until it gives up and teleports.
  13. Have you tried blowing on the bone flute when you are safely on dry land?
  14. Is it possible to melt an ice block inside of a chiseled block to make that sink?
  15. That's not quite true. Stone base blocks are very slightly better than earth based blocks, although the difference is very marginal. You can see this if you construct a mostly earth cellar (which will usually give a 0.27x modifier for spoilage rate), then replace the earth blocks with stone. That should bump you all the way down to a... 0.26x modifier. So yes stone is better, but no it's not going to matter in any practical sense. Much more significant is how close the room is to sunlight and how many non-insulating blocks are present.
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