gilt-kutabe

@Chuckerton The ‘Animal Husbandry’ wiki page says 5% chance of distress at gen 2, the ‘Sheep’ wiki page says 33% at gen 2, so I’m going to say one (or both) are wrong. I don’t know if this works with sheep, but with goats, you can just sit and hold the bucket on it until you get milk, even if it says it’s distressed. It might take a little while to fully milk it, though. You might want to build a safe spot to try to milk them from, too.

@Redpaws If you’re dead set on having different fruit trees at your base, try what this post recommends to edit the cold resistance/die below temperatures of fruit trees.

@Redpaws According to the wiki, it sounds like even adult trees die when it’s too cold. There’s always a chance it’s wrong, but I wouldn’t count on it. ”When planting a fruit tree cutting directly in the ground, each of the cuttings has a 40% chance to take root. However, if they are planted outside of their temperature comfort zone, where winter temperatures fall below their die-below temperature, they will not take root no matter what - or they might grow up only to die during the winter.”

@jackdramon No problem, have fun!

@jackdramon Your forum account and game account are different - do you have a game account or just a forum one?

@heyjon Break speleothems/boulders in shallow caves to get stones (assuming they’re a hard enough stone type to knap), then you can make a knife and axe, make a pan with a log and knife, then pan sand/gravel for flint. If you see flint deposits in cliffs/caves, you can use your bare hands to mine it. It can also spawn in water, so try breaking up the snow on top of the ice for a look.

Could you just world edit in a structure of your choice?

@2inchWarrior https://www.vintagestory.at/refund.html/

@jojolapuz Yes, tools racks work.

Try opening the logs folder when loading your world, I think you want to check server-main and client-main for error messages. You can also try selecting ‘Open Mods Folder’ and deleting the mod’s files, rather than just disabling it.

@Skeletal Tyrant There are a few things you can’t get in winter, so I’d say: Make a farm with a vegetable, flax, and optionally another grain (but flax will suffice). Vegetables and grain (flax or otherwise) will fill out your nutritional bonuses over the winter, and flax for the fibers. You don’t need a huge farm to produce a lot of food. You’ll need fibers to make a windmill, which you’ll need to process certain materials with a pulverizer and automate the quern. For preserving fruit - I don’t believe fruit trees produce anything your first year, and their fruit tends to last through the winter. Since you won’t have access to that, you’ll need to make do with berries. You can turn them into jam with honey and put it in crocks in a cellar, or ferment them in barrels. Bees are only active in warm weather, and you’ll want beeswax for candles anyway, so going for honey/jam is a good option. The first stage of fermentation preserves the nutritional bonus, and only takes about an in-game month. This will require a fruitpress, though. Meat in winter isn’t a huge problem, though you’ll need to hunt more to make up for the decreased drops. You can preserve the meat in crocks, or use salt if you buy some from traders or get lucky finding halite. You can keep pigs for meat and hides, and goats/sheep for milk, though keeping animals doesn’t have to be done before winter. Make sure to make rawhide clothes (raw hides) and fur winter clothing (raw hides cured after being rubbed with fat). Cattails, tule, and grass are annoying to harvest with snow and ice, so stockpile some of those. Trees also don’t grow in the cold, so if you want certain kinds of wood, you might want to plant a few.

@Niclas Hennig Make sure to use shields, they’re very helpful even if you aren’t actively crouching, and can negate a lot of damage. You’re going to want armor with better protection tiers, as well, for higher tier enemies (the handbook can tell you all the enemy and armor/weapons stats). Different armor types within the tier/material give different levels of protection/drawbacks (like scale vs. plate). Tainted drifters deal tier 2 damage, copper armor is tier 1, bronze is tier 2. If you’re hit by a creature with higher tier attack than your armor, it only gives a fraction of the protection (and I think it deals a ton of damage to the durability as well). Regardless of your armor, don’t let yourself get surrounded. You are much more mobile and intelligent than the AI, use that to your advantage. You’ll be overwhelmed by the chip damage quickly. Use ranged weapons as well as melee, either spears or bows, whatever you prefer. They deal a lot of damage, and will give you a much better chance once the enemies get close enough to melee. Healing poultices help a lot despite the low HP restoration for the early ones. Personally, I’ve found tailored gambeson (tier 2) to be sufficient for overworld enemies (like bears, surface drifters), and iron mostly alright for deep caves. I use the Forlorn Hope treasure armor, which is iron tier but has a special bonus that decreases the extra damage from higher tier attacks (the Blackguard set and other plate armors do the same). You can still get smacked around with iron/steel, so make sure you’re well equipped with heals, building blocks, etc. Also, avoid going too deep for your tier. Bells (and the enemies that they summon) are not easy to handle. I’d run for it if I saw one of them with only bronze armor, they’re scary enough with iron. If you’re seeing bells, you’re probably facing other enemies that are too strong for your current equipment.

So I dug out all the blocks I put down, filled the cellar back in with normal dirt (simply replacing the walls didn’t do anything), and dug it out exactly the same way I had it before. It is now completely dark in there again, and I get cave music in there. I’d love to decorate down there, so if anyone knows the exact mechanics of what’s going on I’d really like to know, but it seems to be working for now.

Hello! I’m trying to make a cellar for blue cheese, but keep running into a problem. I dig out the cellar, and make twisty halls until it’s pitch-black (I’m working in the middle of the day). However, once I replace the walls with nicer cellar blocks (mud brick, drystone), it’s bright as day down there. I don’t think it’s a time of day thing - I have a sub cellar dug out of my main cellar, and that one has stayed dark. The difference is, I didn’t replace those walls since I just planned to patch it up once I found out if it would work. So I’m wondering: does the game detect non-natural blocks in an enclosure, decide it’s a player-made structure, and bump up the light levels to make it more convenient for the player? And if it does, does it truly raise the light level (and turn my cheese into cheddar), or is it just visual? I can include screenshots if it would help. Thanks!

@KillerBunny I don’t know if they’re faeries, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were. They pop up once in a while - I don’t think they do anything, they’re probably just for ambience. I chased them the first few times I saw them to see what happened, lol. Maybe they can be caught with the butterfly net? There’s nothing in the handbook about them, so I never tried. They’re pretty neat, regardless.

You’re plugging in the same number (world seed) into the same equations/calculations (which were downloaded with the rest of the code for the game), whatever those equations may be and however it may be coded to use that number. You’re always going to get the same output, no matter what computer/calculator you use or it’s connection to the internet. Except where it’s random, like ore generation, which is not seed dependent. That’s overly simplified, but that’s pretty much it unless you want to ask someone who knows how the code actually works and uses those numbers.

@FwuffyKitten I don’t know how to fix your current issue, but if you have the bug where time remains sped up after sleeping, wait until the game will let you sleep again and do so. That *should* fix it I think. Maybe try /time calenderspeedmul 0.5 (pretty sure that’s the default) instead of the abbreviated csm? It’s probably the exact same command doing the exact same thing, but it might be slightly different.

@@caffeine I believe it goes in a large trough only, so if an animal won’t eat out of a large trough, it won’t do anything. I know pigs can eat it, but not sure about goats and sheep.

@deathwolf54 I have no idea how modding/modeling/texturing works, I’ve just seen the wiki page before. Sorry! I think pretty much every type of item has been textured/retextured in mods, so it’s definitely possible. I’m just not knowledgeable enough to say how. Someone else very likely knows, though!

@JessieImproved I wonder if the code for that one is different, despite it being called a slab maybe it doesn’t have slab behaviors. It might be coded to be a bottom slab always. The normal stone path isn’t a full block - it’s missing the top few voxels on the top. Maybe the stone path slab is similarly a ‘full’ block missing the top half, and since you can’t place a full block halfway up another block, that’s why it can’t be a top slab, because it’s not really a slab. I don’t know anything about the game code, so I might be way off, but that could be what’s going on. If someone else knows, please tell me if I’m wrong.

@deathwolf54 Is this what you’re looking for? https://wiki.vintagestory.at/Modding:VS_Model_Creator_tutorials#Texturing

If you want to do it during world creation, you can select a survival game mode, then when you go to further customize the world, change it to creative. I think the option is right below the world name and height limit.

If you want to avoid cheese strats: early game, you’ll generally want to avoid predators. They’re a lot higher up the food chain than you, you’re not really meant to be able to take them on at this point. The very basic armor and shield can save you if you’re ambushed, but consider taking the chance to run rather than fighting back, if you think you can get away. When fleeing, dropping down cliffs and jumping holes can gain you distance, the AI will tend to go around such obstacles in my experience. Animals swim a lot faster since the last update, but you can still try drowning them in deeper bodies of water. Dive down until they follow you, they seem to have a hard time figuring out how to go up again. Like Thorfin said, safe houses or a ladder up a tree is quite useful. Once you have a shield, armor (not the improvised stuff, around-the-house armor like gambeson and lammelar should suffice) and metal weapons, they’ll still be dangerous, but you can deal with them if you’re careful. Separate them, use the terrain to your advantage, etc. Ranged weapons are your biggest advantage. Try to get used to them, how they handle, how fast they can be fired off, so on. High tier armor, like plate, isn’t necessary, but can make bears and packs of wolves a lot easier. A shield really helps against single enemies, try to have one ready in case you miss your shots and need to melee. But at the end of the day, pillars save lives and are your easiest way out of a sticky situation.

@Le3Kat Yeah, it only counts when they’re actually sitting on the eggs. So if they’re always scared, the eggs aren’t going to get incubated. They’ll incubate whenever you’re out of their detection range, but that could take a long while in your case.

@Nicolai Ritzerfeld It’s pretty much just regular players here. As stated in the refund policy, you’ll have to either send in a support ticket or look at the Humble/itch.io refund policies depending on where you bought the game: https://www.vintagestory.at/refund.html/