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Streetwind

Very Important Vintarian
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Everything posted by Streetwind

  1. Streetwind

    Death

    A chunk is 32x32 blocks. The loading distance is probably equal to your view distance, which you set in your video options.
  2. Streetwind

    Death

    No, it doesn't - at least not concerning the question at hand. You cannot choose a setting that deletes everything you carry. Yes, your inventory's contents will spill out onto the ground and remain there until you return to pick them up - or enough time passes for them to despawn. If you are really far away after respawning, the location of your death will be unloaded, and no time will pass there until you return. If you respawn close by, you should be able to make it in time. Of course, the wolf is likely to still be there... What Gazz meant is: you can configure the game to not drop your inventory on death. You will respawn with everything still on your person. If you want this, you have to either go into the custom settings when creating a world, or use an admin command in an existing world: /worldconfig deathPunishment keep After entering the command in the chat, you have to quit and reload the world for it to apply.
  3. Yeah, the curing recipe works with all hide sizes, but not all cured pelts actually have a use (yet). These kinds of things happen sometimes with Early Access games. Now that you know, keep those small hides in storage. Once you can do proper leatherworking and tanning, they become just as useful as the other sizes. As for the ones you already cured? I'm afraid that theyre wasted.
  4. Unless you manually force a change in the mod folder path with a commandline argument, the only valid mod folder will be the one under %appdata%\VintageStoryData. The one that opens when you press the relevant button in the game. This is always true, regardless of where you installed the game. If you have put mods there and they did not show up, then: - Try closing the game client and starting it again - Make sure you installed the mod correctly. Typically mods delivered as archives should not be extracted, but rather dropped in as-is. There should only be zip files inside the mods folder.
  5. Streetwind

    Hunger

    Just to add: Any worldcnfig change only applies after the world is reloaded. So you must quit to main menu and rejoin your world. Then you'll see if it worked.
  6. ...Then it apparently came across entirely the wrong way. I apologize. It was meant to be a lighthearted quip about how different people experience and visualize things in a different way. User interface design is something I am quite interested in, and this particular phenomenon really defines the entire field. How do you make something that literally any person on earth will look at and instantly understand in the same way that you, the designer, personally imagine it in your head? It's like you're expecting other people to read your mind - which is obviously not going to happen. There will always be someone who just sees things in a different way, like you did here. The design intention of the clayshaping UI was "here are green cubes, they show you what you need to fill in". What you saw, however, was "here is an area of cubes you can use like a canvas, to free-form shape the thing you need". And it is not your fault for seeing it that way, because in the end, any picture in front of you is open to interpretation. The UI designer's goal is to make it as unambiguous as possible, but reaching a hundred percent is pretty much impossible. That is what I was trying to reference.
  7. Note that PSJ and other youtubers may not necessarily "give up" on the game due to getting bored. Rather, it depends on the view count that the videos generate. PSJ himself has stated this in the past for other games - saying that he'll not continue a particular series because he cannot afford to keep making videos that are barely being watched. This is an unfortunate side effect of the Youtube background algorithm. If you want to make a living off of being a content creator, you are reliant on the algorithm recommending your videos to potential new viewers. But if you stop uploading regularly, or if your recently uploaded videos fall below the curve in terms of user enggagement (a complex statistic involving more than just clicks), then Youtube will stop recommending you. Therefore, if PSJ wants to grow his channel further, he must limit himself to upload only videos which draw the maximum amount of viewer engagement. Anything else would actively undermine his own efforts. In the early days of Youtube, you could make it big just on word of mouth and recording what you like. Nowadays, there are way, way too many people competing for viewer attention to make that a viable method anymore. Which is why this... ...is a much bigger issue in "marketing" Vintage Story via youtubers and streamers than its similarity with Minecraft. I mean sure, there will be some people who will look at it and go "...but this is just Minecraft with mods". I see such comments under every VS video I watch. But does that mean these people actually didn't watch? Or did they? And commenting is a form of user engagement too, as far as the algorithm is concerned. But if someone clicks on the video, watches five minutes, thinks "this is boring" and leaves without writing a comment, that's really bad for engagement. And Vintage Story may simply be a game that isn't very "watchable". You may or may not be surprised to hear that making a game "watchable" is a major concern during game design nowadays. Typically a larger concern than making it fun to play. Battle royales like Fortnite do get a bit repetitive after the hundredth round... but they are very, very watchable by crowds of people who enjoy a streamer goofing off for them. The game would not be half the moneymaker it is today if it wasn't so watchable. Another recent example: auto-battler type games. Like Riot Games' Teamfight Tactics. The part of the game where stuff happens basically plays itself - it's right there in the name "auto-battler". It would ordinarily be a niche title for a niche audience. But it's supremely watchable in streams. It was, in fact, built from the ground up to be watchable. That is its entire business model. They intentionally made a game that is fun to watch as it plays itself because it makes more money than a game that's actually fun to play. This is the kind of competition Vintage Story has to face on Youtube and Twitch.
  8. To clarify the "server" part: It is not enough for playing together to have two people who own Vintage Story to click "Multiplayer" in the menu. The game distinguishes strictly between the player (client) and the world (server). When you create a singleplayer game, you will actually spawn an invisible server process in the background, hosted locally on your own machine, and join that server as a client. Therefore, when two people want to play together, the question of "which world do we play in" must be answered first. That's why you cannot simply put two people together at the click of a button. There are two options for providing a world. One, either you or your friend can host the world locally on your/their machine, just as it invisibly happens during singleplayer gameplay; only this time, the server will be visible for both yourself and your friend, so that both of you can connect to it. However, your/their home network needs to be set up to allow the kind of outside connections that a Vintage Story server requires - you'll need to research those. Additionally, every person on a server increases the work load that server has to manage. So if your/their computer is already struggling with singleplayer, then trying to host multiple players on a local server will make for a poor experience for everyone involved. The second option is to use an online server hosting service. The upside is that you don't need to worry about any of the issues mentioned in the previous paragraph. The downside is that you have to pay money to use such a service - usually a monthly fee.
  9. And this is our daily reminder that even the (to oneself) most logical and straightforward-seeming UI is not in fact going to be straightforward to 100% of users
  10. Unfortunately I can only guess what happens on your screen. Perhaps you could share a video, or at least a screenshot?
  11. I think you can just punch them until they "break" and pop out into item form, like any other block. But the faster way is having an empty slot in your hotbar selected, and right-clicking the mold. This works with almost all kinds of pottery, by the way - both fired and unfired.
  12. Did you activate the game with the key that was mailed to you? There is a second step after purchasing that requires you to associate an account with a game key. If you did not get a key by email, check your spam folder.
  13. Did you restart the server? Changed worldconfig commands only take affect upon reloading a world.
  14. It's simple to add another general field, yes. It's less simple to drill down into individual creatures' properties, as in your last paragraph. However, I'm pretty sure that anytime I've thrown a spear at a rabbit and hit, it died. Even with just flint spears. What did you try to use, and was it fully charged up?
  15. Creature Hostility has three settings: "aggressive" (wolves and monsters attack on sight, other animals when provoked), "passive" (creatures only attack when provoked), and "never hostile" (creatures do not fight back at all). Exploration Mode uses "passive" by default. That means that, while you will not be pounced by everything in sight, combat can still happen. What exactly consititutes "provoked" may vary from creature to creature. For example, male bighorn sheep insist on proper social distancing, and will hit you if you stand right next to them. Try making a new world, select Exploration Mode, and then the Customize button at the bottom of the screen. There, change Creature Hostility to "never hostile". Then try and see if that is what you were looking for in gameplay.
  16. This kind of blurs the line between player customization and modding. I've seen streamers glance at the existing custom settings, eyes glazing over, and then just stick to the default settings. Making that menu even larger has the potential of putting people off of using it at all. At the same time, everything you suggest is already possible through modding. And Vintage Story is a game built from the ground up with modding in mind. You can in fact just go into the game's files, change the health and damage values on every single creature, then run ModMaker.exe in the base directory - and it will spit out a fully configured mod that contains the changes you made (while restoring the game to defautl settings).
  17. @EMSpara - This is not my video, so I don't claim any credit for it. I also cannot guarantee it shows the steps exactly as I described them. That said, it does follow the same general approach: use the primary propick mode in a grid pattern, use the map to take notes and identify hotspots, dig downwards at the hotspot, and use the secondary propick mode to triangulate the position of a vein.
  18. Note that (as with any other ingame commands to change the world settings) you will need to quit and re-enter the world after using that command before you can switch to the new secodnary mode. Also, it is just a tool you need to learn to use, not a magic solution. If you start walking around the world with the secondary mode active and search at random, you will more than likely not find anything, because that is not what it is intended for. Prospecting is a player skill that you must learn through practice, no matter what modes are available to you. A common good practice for ore search goes like this: 1.a.) Determine whether the ore can even exist where you currently are. Not all types of stone can carry all types of ore. If you try to search for cassiterite in claystone, you will have a bad time. To find out what stones you need, open the handbook by pressing H, then search for the nugget of the ore you want - for example "nugget (cassiterite)" for tin. Click that entry. Look for "obtained by breaking", where you'll find a number of items. Mouse over them. The tooltip will tell you the stone types these nuggets can be found in. 1.b.) If you do not know what stone types you have where you are, you'll need to dig a shaft down and check. There are almost always three layers of stone below the surface; sometimes there is a narrow fourth layer, but not always. Find out what your local three main stone types are. Can at least one of them spawn cassiterite (tin)? Or alternatively, can at least one of them spawn sphalerite (zinc) and at least one bismuthinite? If your answer to either one is "no", you will need to move to a different part of the world where there are different kinds of stones. But I doubt that will happen. 2.a.) Once you know what you want to look for, select the primary mode of the prospecting pick, and decide on a grid pattern. Using a systematic search pattern is far more likely to yield results than taking samples randomly. The primary mode requires you to break three blocks a certain distance apart from each other, but always gives you a result for the first block you broke. So only the first block you break matters for your pattern. You could decide to check every 100 blocks, for example. That is a nice and easy to remember pattern. Ingame, hit V to bring up the coordinate display in the upper right. Then start somewhere that's a multiple of 100 in both the first and the last number. For example 200,x,200. (The middle number is your altitude, which does not matter.) Prospect that particular block (and break two others near it to get your result). Now, move 100 blocks over in one direction, for example to 300,x,200. Prospect that particular block. Move 100 blocks again. Rinse, repeat. 2.b.) Each time you prospect, make a map marker with a summary of what you found. Something like "poor zinc, decent bismuth, no tin, high borax". You can include the percentage numbers or not - they help a little, but it's extra work. You can limit yourself to only noting cassiterite, sphalerite and bismuthinite for now, if tracking everything feels too tedious. But on the other hand, tracking everything might later help you find iron, or something else you're looking for. 2.c.) EDIT: There's actually a mod that does that for you, if you are willing to go into modding. 3.a.) Once you have prospected a bunch, going both north/south and east/west, you will be able to use the map to mouse over the markers you've made and look for patterns. Does moving east/west make the cassiterite concentration go up or down? Does going north/south make the sphalerite concentration go up or down? This is why you use a steady grid pattern: it lets you identify trends. It'll be easier to see these trends if you recorded the percentages, but it also works with just the words poor/decent/high and so on. Follow the trends. Prospect more where it looks like the concentrations of the things you want are going up, but keep to your grid pattern for now. 3.b.) You're hoping for an "ultra high" reading, but it's not guaranteed that one will exist. Perhaps "very high" is the best the current area will give you. Or even less. Once upon a time I was so desperate for iron, I made do with "poor" being the best reading. It's up to you. The higher the reading you can obtain, the higher the chance that you will actually find ore in the following steps. Once it looks like you're getting a decently high reading, it might be worth to narrow your pattern and search every 50 blocks instead. Identify and map out that hotspot where the highest readings are. Note that not all the things you want are going to be high in the same area. If you need both bismuth and zinc, you'll need to identify hotspots for both. 4.) After you've found a hotspot, go home, and fetch ladders. A lot of ladders. Like, at least two stacks if you're playing with default world height. More if your world is higher. Sticks can be obtained in large quantities by making some copper shears and running through a forest trimming the trees. 5.) Vintage Story spawns ores as horizontal discs. Thus, much in the same way you're shooting an arrow at the front of a practice target and not at the side, you'll be digging from the top down to have the best chance to hit an ore disc. Hence the ladders. Pick somewhere on top of your hotspot, and dig straight down. To prevent you falling into a cave, you'll make the shaft two blocks wide, and stand in the middle while digging left, right, left, right. This way, you will always have solid ground under your feet even if you break through the ceiling of a cavern. If that does happen, you'll have to find a way to continue downwards; this might involve fighting mobs, lighting up the area, and building walls around your ladder. Or you could give up this shaft and dig a different one a couple dozen blocks off to one side. But if you hit a cave with the first shaft, chances are the whole area is full of holes, and any shaft you dig will eventually hit one. Might as well grit your teeth and fight for your shaft. Additionally, you could later start exploring these caves starting from the shaft you dug, using it as a safe retreat. 6.) As you dig down, you will go from one stone layer to the next. Pay attention to what stone you are digging through. Can this stone type carry the ore you want? If no, continue digging until you hit the right stone. If yes - well, now is finally the time to activate the secondary propick mode. If you used the command like Maxwell supplied it in his post above, you'll have a search radius of 6. That means you will want to break a block with the propick every 12 blocks (twice your search radius) that you go down. Keep doing this as you dig deeper. Now, one of three things will happen. 7.a.) The first possible result is, you find nothing, even if you dig as deep as you can. This can happen even with an "ultra high" reading, but it is very unlikely. If you must make do with a lower quality hotspot, the chance of this happening obviously goes up. If this happens, you will have to dig another shaft some 15-20 blocks away from your first one, and repeat the exercise. When I was looking for iron at a "poor" hotspot, I needed four shafts. 7.b.) The second possible result is, you dig straight into a disc of ore. Congratulations, a winner is you! 7.c.) The third possible result is, your prospecting pick secondary mode spits out a reading for ore, but you do not find it by digging further down. This means that there is the rim of a disc of ore within 6 blocks of your shaft, but you narrowly missed it. 8.a.) If it's the third case, you now need to triangulate where that vein is located. Take prospecting readings along your shaft both upwards and downwards in narrow steps (say, 3 blocks, half your search radius) until you can no longer detect the ore on both ends. This lets you identify the exact middle point - the altitude of the disc. 8.b.) At that altitude, dig a horizontal tunnel into the side of your shaft, six blocks deep. Take another reading. Is the ore still showing up? If no, do the same on the opposite side of the shaft. 8.c.) If the ore reading still shows up (or you went to the opposite side), you now dig a tunnel perpendicular to the first one. Again, go six blocks in both directions and take samples. Does the ore still show up? 8.d.) If you've made it here without finding anything - honestly, you should have run into that disc long ago. Try digging up or down a bit where your prospecting readings are the highest, maybe the terrain shape has twisted the vein into a non-disc-like shape. This happens sometimes.
  19. When you look up sphalerite in the handbook, it will show you all the possible ore blocks. Something like "sphalerite in claystone", "sphalerite in granite", and so on and so forth. If you know which three stone types are in your area, you can check and confirm that they can carry sphalerite (or any other ore) with this method.
  20. All in all, I think you're best served with going prospecting. As long as you have stone nearby that can support sphalerite, that is. The non-mining sources will take you so much time and effort that you'll have found a vein by the time you're done with panning or refreshing trader inventories or earning gears or the like. I'd only go for those if you don't have the right stone.
  21. Depends entirely on your area and climate, right? I'm sure there are areas where the greenhouse as-is makes the difference between keeping the farm going in winter, and having your crops freeze. It is not meant to be a magical solution for all temperature problems. There will be areas too cold for farming in winter no matter what you do, and this is intentional. The game wants you to live off of preserved food during winter. That said, the greenhouse is a new addition, and its effects may not yet be set up perfectly. What would you change if you could, given the design intents above? And what would your reasons be for those changes?
  22. I believe that right now, it means that you get less meat from slaughtering the animal if its weight is not optimal. The use case is to make meat harder to come by in winter, when animals themselves have trouble finding food and are therefore not as plump and juicy.
  23. Well, you cannot find what isn't there - regardless of range. Even if you get an "Ultra High" reading for cassiterite, that just means that this spot has a better chance than near anywhere else. It doesn't mean the diceroll was a guaranteed succees and placed a deposit there for you to find. Especially if you happen to dig in a stone type that cannot actually spawn cassiterite! Only a subset is able to, regardless of what the spawn chance says. Your methodology also has a large impact on how easy it is to find a deposit that actually does exist. Because Vintage Story generates most ore deposits as flat(-ish) discs, it means that driving a horizontal tunnel through the stone looking for ore is a terrible way to do it, while drilling a vertical shaft straight down is a great way to do it. Think about a large, circular archery target. How are you more likely to hit it - if you face the flat surface head-on, or if you lay it on its side and try to shoot the edge? Another way of looking at it is the "mesh fence paradox" - as in, throwing a rock through a mesh fence without hitting the mesh is far harder than it looks, given that the mesh fence is like 98% empty space. But in order to miss, you have to not only consider the area of the mesh, but the area of your rock as well. They add together. And the same is true for an ore deposit and your detection range. If you dig a shaft at 0,0, and there is an ore deposit at 0,16, and your detection range is 8, you might think you'll miss it... but actually, if the ore despoit is a disc with a radius of 8 blocks itself, then your propick will in fact detect the edge of it. Your true search range is the radius of your propick plus the radius of the disc of ore. And in fact, the grid pattern you need to search to be sure to "not miss anything"* is twice that number. If you start at 0,0 with a detection range of 8, and you assume ore deposits have a radius of 8 as well, then the next shaft should be dug at 0,32 - a whole chunk away. Eight blocks search radius of your first shaft, plus two times eight blocks radius of the ore disc, plus eight blocks search radius of your second shaft. And then another shaft at 0,64. And so on. And then maybe offset by half in the other dimension, so 32,16, 32,48, -32,16, -32,48... and so on. As such, the difference between a detection range of 8 and a detection range of 12 on the propick is actually not as large as you think it is for the purposes of noticing the presence of an ore deposit. But triangulating where the deposit is after you have first noticed its presence takes much less effort with a lower detection range. That's why I recommend a value of 8 over a larger one. *(Actually not guaranteed to not miss anything, just likely to find >90% of everything. But, making the pattern narrower starts to become inefficient by partially overlapping search areas, meaning you search some areas twice, which is a waste of your time. You are more likely to spend less time on finding ore by accepting a small chance to miss something.)
  24. You did not miss a setting. This is simply a case of "the development team has not yet gotten around to implement such effects". You will also find, for example, that you can stay underwater indefinitely; the player character currently does not breathe and can never drown. This game is in Early Access, meaning it is still in active development. It is also not feature-complete yet. Therefore, by the classical definition of software development, you are playing an "alpha version".
  25. I wholeheartedly support setting the secondary propick mode on by default. It is an engaging game mechanic that gives the player a feel of control, yet it does not magically lead the player to ore - they still need to use the primary mode. As such, there's pretty much no downside and a whole lot of upside to have this active by default. I recommend a search radius of 8, but that's just me personally. That said: you're doing it wrong You're not supposed to look for your first vein with a prospecting pick. The primary mode will, in fact, ignore surface copper deposits entirely, as they are not spawned by the ore density map. They use a different generation mechanic. Instead, you're supposed to dig out those surface copper deposits that spawn below where there are bits of copper in stones on the surface. I generally do zero panning in my games, because it's just not necessary. You go and find those little rock bits, guesstimate the rough middle point they are clustered about, and then make a map marker in that precise location. Repeat for every cluster you find, they're adequately common at default survival settings. Or, well, you could find just one of them and pan for the rest, at your leisure. Once you have collected enough copper to make a pickaxe, or you found a pickaxe in a ruin (more common than you might think), come back to the marked spot(s) and simply dig straight down. You will be pretty much guaranteed to hit copper, every time, for every cluster. The surface deposit spawns within the top ten stone (not dirt) blocks, and is usually a circle about 10 blocks in diameter. You'd have to be really, really bad at finding the center between multiple rock bits to miss a 10-block diameter disk.
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