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Silent Shadow

Vintarian
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Everything posted by Silent Shadow

  1. Not usually, but it is possible. When you are in the range of 55% to 85% world height, there can be 18 surface and deep drifters alive, which is what I suspect happened here.
  2. You can also get this effect with a wood room if the ambient temperature is 8 degree or less. Keep in mind that drifters can walk into spaces that are 1.5 blocks tall. I think the player can too if crouching.
  3. This house doesn't look higher than 6 blocks, so unless the floor is dug out, that shouldn't be an issue.
  4. Pretty sure it is a 5% chance for an extra seed to drop. Also the falloff of moisture from a water block is 25% per block so you will get pretty different growth rates.
  5. Did you lose some max Hp from a loss of a food category satiety? That would make the same damage from an enemy a larger fraction of your health. I have found the only reasons to explore caves is for saltpeter (great fertilizer) and to quickly and cheaply descend levels for mining deep ores.
  6. So is adding more than 100 flowers provide no benefit or does it actively harm re-population time?
  7. Don't mind me, just gonna incorporate this into my drifter grinding machine...
  8. Don't most people stop looking after they find what they are looking for?
  9. Are you playing as nomads? That is the only time I have needed more space. What are you moving that 24+ slots isn't enough?
  10. Sort of. In this case we aren't really preserving the food itself (pickling, salting, cooking, drying, etc.), we are just storing it somewhere that prolongs the time until it spoils (shelf life). Taking the food out of the room will subject it to a faster spoiling rate. I was not taking care to differentiate the two above though.
  11. Yeah, but this is ugly as sin. A larger windmill wood look way better, but should cost more to offset the reduced gears and axles required.
  12. As that other person, I concur, but I will add that I have seen this over a few worlds (most pre-homestead update, but that shouldn't matter). As for finding bauxite, your best real option is to cover distance and hope to spot orange on the map. The game has geologic formations such as mountain ranges and continental shields, and sedimentary layers have the best chances of spawning in shields, but there is no good way to identify a formation until you map it, so this is kinda useless. You can also use the propick to look for Lapis Lazuli, as it only spawns in limestone (nice to have), the marbles (uncommon), or bauxite (the goal). This can be a quick check in flat areas where there are no caves, but you want to check for lower bauxite layers (not all bauxite has it though).
  13. That is not what I found. Wood does indeed provide a bonus. Below is a comparison of an outside pot, and two 3x3x3 blocks with a pot inside, one wood and one dirt, at 15 C : Outside pot - (V)egetable: 0.41, (G)rain: 0.28x, (O)ther: 0.55x Dirt enclosed pot - V: 0.19x, G: 0.13x, O: 0.26x Wood enclosed pot - V: 0.2x, G 0.13x, O: 0.26x The shelf life of grain and meat placed in the pots mostly reflects the above numbers in its lifespan (keep in mind your "days per month setting" will alter the "years" a food lasts for): Outside pot: Grain - 3 years, Meat - 2.7d Dirt enclosed pot: Grain - 6.5 years, Meat - 5.8d Wood enclosed pot: Grain - 6.4 years, Meat - 5.7d Once at ~8 C, the difference was negligible between dirt and wood enclosed pots. Dirt: Grain - 6.5 years, Meat: 5.8 days Wood: Grain - 6.4 years, Meat: 5.7 days No real change in difference between the two pots' reduction stats after some time/seasons. Dirt: Grain - 4.7 years, Meat: 1.1 days Wood: Grain - 4.7 years, Meat: 1.2 days Once we look at higher temperatures (37 C in this case), the advantage of dirt/stone cellars becomes apparent: Outside: Grain - 74.8 days, Meat - 10.8 hours, V: 1.8x, G: 1.2x, O: 2.4x Dirt: Grain - 4.9 years, Meat: 5.2 days; V: 0.19x, G: 0.13x, O: 0.26x Wood: Grain - 1.6 years, Meat: 1.8 days; V: 1.47x, G: 0.38x, O :0.76x Looking at the data, it is pretty clear that blocks other than stone, dirt, and ceramics will give a bonus to food shelf lives. Stone/dirt/ceramics give almost an equal bonus at 15 C (a very common temperate temperature), but foods sheltered within "cellars" will not suffer additional spoilage due to higher ambient temperatures. Basically, stone/dirt/ceramic walls are only better than wood in hot climates, and wood does give a bonus to food preservation. That said, dirt is pretty much everywhere so you may as well build a cellar with it. You probably broke the game's recognition of the room, as having the pot in a room (cellar or not) about halves the spoilage rate. As for the slightly lower spoilage rate you got after putting in cobblestone blocks, the amount of sunlight reaching the cellar may have changed (either by you rearranging the entrance or a change in the sun's path slightly altering the path of sunlight to the cellar.) Try removing all doors and trapdoors and filling them in with solid stone/dirt/ceramic blocks.
  14. The game Eco had dirt and stone ramps players could make for this purpose, but there is no real point to carts as carrying capacity is rarely a long distance issue.
  15. Stone and earth are supposed to give better results than wood, but the main thing to account for is temperature. Stone and earth are better insulators than wood and so give a better bonus. The game seems to track temperature beyond just ambient climate temperature, but I am not sure if it is on a block by block basis or not. Keep in mind that cellars are only a benefit if the ambient temperature outside is 8 degrees or more.
  16. The downside would be to remove one of few reasons players have to leave their base, and one of even fewer reasons to build a road. I do wish you could recruit people to live and work in your village though.
  17. Well, history has plenty of examples where much of the metal smelted from an ore ended up in the slag rather than the ingot, so there is some basis for better smelting resulting in more metal from ore. Crushing ore, either by hammer or heave hammer, should not increase the amount of metal recoverable, and it should only reduce the amount of slag generated (which is entirely absent in the game) and reduce the fuel needed.
  18. The realistic options are panning, which would only see nuggets from eroded ore sources (i.e. not most ores), or crushing and melting the entirety of all rocks/gravel/sand harvested at an enormous energy cost (fuel and player calories). Second option is not done IRL, as it is vastly inefficient, from durability losses of hammers from crushing rock/gravel (the whole point is to get metal, not lose it), the staggering amounts of fuel and flux required to separate and reduce the metal, and the massive amount of slag waste generated (in the game however, slag is not depicted). Probably neither is gonna happen, so you should just increase the amount of ore spawned. I like the idea, but disagree with changing prospecting, you can already find ores pretty easily and wood is pretty cheap. Even using logs every few blocks would not be that bad. Apart from ladders though, there is no real reason to invest in mine infrastructure. Most real mines invest in ventilation or moving rock by the tons, neither of which are an issue for the player thanks to no weight limit, the cheap mining bags, and the player's apparent lack of the need to breath. Blasting bombs are not useful because they do not save you any time, with the debatable exception of low value quartz. Theoretically they would be quite useful if used to counter a severely reduced mining speed, the player would only dig a hole and then place a charge in and blast the rest of the tunnel in seconds instead of digging it after some time. What defeats this idea though, is the fact that players do not need tunnels nor shafts wider than 1 block. Since blasting charges only serve to widen holes, their only reasonable application is to quickly blow apart ore deposit discs and they negate this advantage by deleting some of the ore (10%?). Perhaps a better idea would be to use the chisel and hammer to cut a 2x2 voxel hole 2 blocks into the rock face and place charges in it, this way players could blast tunnels out in a direction quickly instead of just widening a hole out,
  19. Glass blowers can use molds to facilitate quick production. You would take the molten bubble at the end of a tube and place it in a 2 piece mold, and then blow the bubble into the mold to make items such as bottles or jars. Free blowing glass becomes quite complicated though, as it relies on spinning the workpiece and pressing mandrels or tongs into it, cutting it with pliers, fusing new glass pieces onto it, etc. Maybe the devs will introduce a "lathe" system where you build a type of workbench and when you right click on it, you automatically spin the item and you then have to press tools into it to form the item. Quite complicated, but it could at least to used in other industries.
  20. The benefit of lamellar armor is that you can quickly make it. All of the other metal armors have to be forged whereas you can cast all the metal pieces in one go, assuming you have the molds. Also more fuel efficient as the ore is only heated once.
  21. The game could use more movement options, but I would rather see the translocaters get more love as the fast travel option. I find that roads are enjoyable to build and use in this game, especially when the terrain is rugged or just impassable, but they are only worth it for a few reasons: traders and some mines. If you could fast travel from any trader to another, roads would cease to have any real impact. There is no point to boats unless you could bring a lot of stuff in them as your character can swim just fine. If this does become a thing I would expect a significant cost to doing it (20+ rusty gears per km or something similar).
  22. So turn rocks into sand for more panning? Wouldn't mining the ores normally be more metal efficient and faster anyway? Why bother? I also don't really like how it passively rewards the player with "byproducts" for zero extra effort. If people want resources, they should have to work for them in a survival game. Just giving it to you is not going to make it valuable to the player, they should have to mine them as ores. If you want these available as early teasers (or gambling) for players just make the nuggets of the ores spawn in the ruins' loot pots. This system would also make players have to decide whether to keep these one or two special nuggets early on in their limited space or chuck it out for something immediately useful or more valuable (which I am fine with, but you may not be with the FOMO thing you said above) Doubling the ore just doesn't make sense as you said, but I do like the idea of crushing ore with the pulverizers, which would be nice if only to prevent having to replace the hammers I normally use in exchange for time and power. You would get to save the metal for the hammers for something else and it would be a nice function for an otherwise underused machine, but it would not break the game.
  23. This is like saying zombies are overpowered in Minecraft or chickens are too strong in Runescape. Drifters are only a problem if you cannot maneuver or block them off, and it is easy to do either on the surface. Where to start? It is not like combat in Vintage Story is all that complicated. It takes 24 hits assuming you don't do what l33tman said and burn them, and you have a very fast attack rate with melee weapons (except spear thrust) to the point that killing one takes around 5 seconds. Not great, but if you set a patch of grass on fire and draw them over it, they will die much faster and you can hurt multiple drifters at once. If you want easy kills, jump into the water shown above (not anything deeper, unless you place a torch) and abuse their severely reduced speed to safely poke them to death with a spear (works on wolves too). If you are missing health, horsetail and reeds are easy to find in most forests. The lighter armors (even improvised) do wonders against the surface drifters too. If you find yourself running out of spears, just carry a club around or a small stack of flint spear heads. Each spear can kill 5 drifters with just thrusts, so two should see you through almost all fights. Any sword (like the one you have in your pictures) should be able to kill at least 75 surface drifters before breaking. If you need to stick in an area, then you can always (ugh) abuse the pillar strategy while marking your map or making a new spear. You can also make a safe area (fences are cheap to make) or sleep. If you are just passing by, then you can easily out pace drifters. I cannot remember the last time I lost half my health to surface drifters, let alone die, so I kinda wonder if you are just not very skilled in combat (which is fine, but don't assume everyone is playing at that level when making assumptions/assertions about the game) since you are struggling against packs of three drifters with an iron sword.
  24. If you didn't enable node search on the prospecting pick then type this into your chat (t): /worldConfig propickNodeSearchRadius 8 Finding ores is much harder without it. In general, efficient prospecting goes like this: Figure out what the parent or gangue rock is for the desired mineral/ore; you can check from the handbook or from this handy table. This can help prevent wasting your time searching in areas that will never have it or helping find areas with the highest grades (poor, medium, rich, or bountiful; not % chance of finding them) of ores. Case in point, Galena (lead) and borax can only be found in sedimentary rocks which are always the top layer of rock (usually, basalt and other sedimentary rock layers can be on top too but this is uncommon), so if you want those minerals, you need to find one of the 8 sedimentary rock layers like sandstone or chert. If you want cassiterite (tin), then you should look in regions without a top layer of sedimentary stone layers to increase your chances of finding a deposit closer to the surface or of a higher grade. In a region with the right rock types, you can start doing prospecting samples (needs to be done on stone, with 3+ blocks between each sample in one axis {x, y, or z}). Record the results on the map and compare; you should be trying to first locate the mineral/ore you want and then trying to find the highest concentration of it you can find. (Optional) Once you find the highest point of concentration, you can do a grid survey around it to find out the ideal area to be looking through for ores/minerals. This makes it easier to dig in from a cave/tunnel/shaft that spawned naturally. Once you know the area you need to mine in, you should look at the depths the ores/minerals spawn at and get down to that level (keep in mind that some heights are based on distance to the top of the ground and others to sea level. Read carefully). Generally it is much cheaper to dig vertically than horizontally, as ladders are much easier to make than pickaxes are. You can use tunnels and caves you found to do that and save time and pickaxes, but keep in mind that you will have to deal with the dangerous denizens of the underground. Locating the actual ore/mineral deposit will consist of using the node search function of the prospecting pick (switch functions with f), which will detect any non-stone ores/minerals within 8 blocks. If you do not find a deposit, try digging a shaft or drift 16+ blocks away (twice the detection radius) and use the prospecting pick again. Eventually you will find the target deposit. If you want to save on pickaxes, try to dig with more vertical shafts than horizontal drifts as your character cannot traverse 1 block high openings. The ideal search method will resemble roots branching off downwards. The final step is triangulating the ore deposit. The prospecting pick will only reveal the amount of ores around it in an octahedron, so you will need to check how the readings differ along each axis (x, y, z) to find the deposit. When checking along an axis, you should keep checking until you read a change in the amount nearby. Mark the change with something (torches work well) and go in the opposite direction until you get the same change and mark that spot too. In between the two marks is where the deposit sits along that axis. Repeat for the other axis and you will find the deposit. Good Luck!
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