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LadyWYT

Vintarian
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Everything posted by LadyWYT

  1. Raw ingredients should be stored in a storage vessel in a cellar. Cooked ingredients are best stored in sealed crocks in a cellar when possible; otherwise, store them in storage vessels or shelves in the cellar. Pickling vegetables, salt-curing meats, and turning fruits into jams will extend the shelf life for a few years. Really depends on the climate, the food type, how it's prepared and stored, and then what the player set the food spoilage rate to.
  2. Probably because Anego Studios is doing just fine without Steam at the moment. Steam takes a cut of revenue, and has its own set of rules that Anego would need to comply with to ensure that Vintage Story can be sold on Steam(as is the case when dealing with any kind of middleman). I think Steam integration is still on the roadmap for the game's future, but definitely not a priority right now.
  3. The problem with boosting the damage of other weapons to overcome the burst damage of the old spears, is then creature health needs to be adjusted as well. Otherwise the monsters and tougher wildlife like bears won't pose any kind of threat since the player will be able to mow them down more easily. Rather than try to adjust all those numbers, it's much easier to focus just on the spear's numbers, and adjust the health of some of the smaller creatures like chickens and rabbits to ensure that early game hunting isn't too hard. Heavier armor does impose harsher penalties on ranged combat, yes, however chain armor is quite protective while imposing relatively few penalties to movement and ranged combat. Gambeson is also quite protective as a tier 2 armor, with even fewer drawbacks. The non-stackable property of spears is a disadvantage, but if the player can outrun the enemy then it's a simple enough task to kite the target and pick up spears that have been fired, meaning that the player really only needs to carry 3-4 spears on average. With bigger backpacks in the late game the inventory space is even less of an issue. The only exception here is tunnel-fighting in the underground, but in that case the player can block off passages with fences or other blocks to stop enemies from reaching them. It's also worth noting that the Hunter class has traits that boost movement speed as well as range, ranged damage, and accuracy--armor penalties won't affect them nearly as much as other classes when it comes to ranged combat. Ironically, Hunter and Clockmaker are the fastest classes in armor thanks to the inherent +10% movement speed; the only exception is plate armor, in which case they're evenly matched with Blackguard. In any case, the main point is that if spears are going to be a weapon that hits much harder than the bow, then they need to have a slower fire rate to balance it out, especially when there's a class with inherent bonuses to ranged combat. That also tends to be ranged weapon balance for videogames in general--ranged weapons with low damage per shot typically have very high burst damage to compensate, while weapons that deal a lot of damage in a single shot will have a slow fire rate in order to make players consider those shots carefully. Adding a weapon that does a lot of damage with each shot, that also has a fast rate of fire, is an easy way to get players to always opt for that weapon in every situation, if not always pick the ranged class as well.
  4. The burst damage is why the spears were nerfed though. Prior to 1.22, spears had rather high damage when thrown, and could be thrown very quickly, meaning that targets that didn't die in the initial barrage could be finished off with a hit or two in melee. If there's enough space, the player can easily kite enemies around to pick up thrown spears, even when wearing armor, ensuring they can have a steady supply of spears to keep throwing. While this kind of damage might be very convenient, it's not really good for the long-term health of the game when thrown spears are outclassing every other available weapon. As it stands, the spear has become a solid general purpose weapon, good for both melee and ranged combat but master of neither. In melee, it has a longer reach than the falx, but doesn't have autoloot available, has less base damage, and can't be sharpened for critical hits. In ranged combat, the spear hits harder per shot than the bow, but spears can't be thrown as far as a bow can shoot, they don't stack like arrows can, and the slightly longer windup for throwing means the player needs to be intentional about when they choose to fire the spear. Pretty much. When I finally did the math on the old spears, thrown spears turned out to be the best option for even the Blackguard, which has a penalty to ranged damage. It really says a lot when the class that isn't supposed to be good at ranged combat has a ranged weapon as its best damage output.
  5. I went and looked it up--the change occurred in rc1. The initial spear changes had spears taking about twice the charge time they do now, with almost a point less damage.
  6. I believe the climate bands really only apply to the general annual temperatures for that latitude, and not the rainfall. It's possible to have warmer or colder chunks mixed in--for example, the temperate bands can have pockets of cooler/warmer climates. Elevation also affects climate--the higher you go, the colder it gets. Rainfall determines whether a particular region is likely to be lush plains/forest or a desert. In the temperate bands, the areas with high rainfall will have better soil quality, and tend to support more forest, while the areas with less rainfall will be deserts or regions with low soil fertility. In the tropical climate bands, high rainfall tends to result in jungles, while low rainfall produces deserts and savannahs.
  7. I tend to play the default world gen, for the most part, as I do enjoy it for the most part. The only setting I consistently change is turning the land coverage down to 80%. This ensures that the map remains mostly land, which I enjoy, while ensuring that there will be several large lakes and oceans to find and make use of in my travels.
  8. This is something I would really hate to see implemented. It's a system that works in some games, yes, but one of the core strengths of Vintage Story is that things aren't locked behind specific skills that have to be leveled in order to build/use things. The player can easily take their time progressing through the game and enjoy each tech level to its fullest extent, or they can really push their progression and rush through the tech levels they don't enjoy as much, if they have the knowledge and resources to do so. Likewise, players who find really good gear in ruins/cracked vessels(tin bronze or copper items), purchase good equipment from traders, or otherwise are gifted better equipment by friends won't need to grind an arbitrary number of levels in a skill just to be able to use those items. As for constructing specific buildings for certain tasks, this is already a soft requirement. To refine steel, the player will need to build refractories. To store food, the player will need to build a cellar. Forging items doesn't require a specific building, exactly, but a helve hammer will need machinery to power it, which means the player will need to set up their forge area near the machinery. While I somewhat agree here, I think the better option is to just give the player more things to do earlier in the game. There's only so many things a player can do at once, and more things to do means they'll have to choose to focus on certain things over others, rather than just be able to easily complete everything the early game has to offer in a few days and jump to iron. This is changing somewhat in 1.22; with the berry bush rework and farming tweaks, the player will want to set up farms earlier and start bush cuttings if they want an established berry patch for the next year. Likewise, iron takes a bit more effort to work given the changes implemented with bellows. In any case, giving the players more things to do earlier in the game lets them decide for themselves how fast they really want to progress, and have fun with the process, rather than feel like everything is being locked behind arbitrary time gates to give it meaning. I also want to note that the early tech levels are important for the early game, but not tech levels the player is meant to remain at long-term. Not everything available at those levels necessarily needs to be viable either; for example, the player can make copper plate armor, but it's not particularly viable to do so since the resource/labor cost is quite high compared to the durability and protection offered by the armor. Bronze lamellar armor is solid equipment for general adventuring, but it's not going to hold up against stronger monsters, so the player will need to invest in iron equipment before braving the harsher storms or venturing into the deep caves. I think this idea really only works for things like special pieces of Jonas tech, where the player really shouldn't have access to the stuff without completing parts of the story in order to avoid trivializing certain things. I just play multiplayer with my friend, but I can say that multiplayer does speed up certain aspects of progress, while slowing down others. Generally, the early game goes faster, since one of us can be out scouting/hunting/foraging while the other sets up base and farms. By the time the mid-late game rolls around though, things slow down a bit, since there are two players requiring iron/steel gear rather than just one, and the forges and refineries only work so fast.
  9. First off, welcome to the forums! Given it's now July 2, it's not been very much time since you've planted those crops--either a couple of days to about two weeks. Do keep in mind that crop growth times scale with the month length, so if you make the months longer then crops will also take more time to grow. That is, a turnip will take nine days by default to mature, since that is how long the months are on default settings, but if you increase the month length to thirty then turnips will take thirty days to mature. I believe nutrients are only consumed when the crop advances a growth stage. The first thing I would check is crop growth times, since cabbage grows a bit slowly compared to other vegetable crops. It might be that everything else has a much faster growth time and the cabbage hasn't had enough time to actually grow yet. However, it also looks rather dark in that corner of the farm for some reason. Make sure that the farm is getting enough sunlight, as I don't think crops will grow if the area is too shaded(unless underground farming is turned on).
  10. While I somewhat agree, I also look at it as...at the end of the day, Vintage Story is still a videogame, and in some cases the cost for things is probably going to be a little different than what it should for the sake of keeping the gameplay balanced. Now I'm not saying that some things shouldn't maybe be tweaked(I certainly wouldn't mind seeing wattle-and-daub go just a bit farther than it's already been made to go), but I also don't want things to become too easy either. Getting two blocks' worth of material for two blocks' worth of input sounds like a pretty change though. I think this goes for most suggestions in general really, and not just presenting a good argument to Tyron. The better the supporting argument behind a suggestion, the more likely other players are to throw their support behind it. I've seen several suggestions/criticisms that weren't necessarily bad themselves, but the supporting arguments for them were either heavily flawed or nonexistent.
  11. Yes. I don't recall exactly when the changes were last tweaked, but it was fairly recently.
  12. First off, welcome to the forums! I will note that the plate armors have different models/textures depending on the material the armor is made from. As for lamellar, chain, scale, and brigandine armors, those armors tend to have a pretty uniform look in general due to how those armors are constructed. There's not as much room for variation.
  13. For future reference, strong tannin makes brown, and grass can make green dye. If you have metal scraps/rusty gears on hand you can also make black/gray dye, though you'll probably want to save the gears for spending later. Edit: Fun fact, but if I'm recalling correctly pink was a favorite color for rich Vikings, since it was a more difficult color to obtain in that region.
  14. For what it's worth the spears have been reverted to what they were before, mostly, in terms of charge time and attack. The only real difference now is that steel spears are what bronze spears used to be, and iron/steel spears can be quenched to further boost their attack power.
  15. According to this comment, it looks like there's already a way for users to work on translations:
  16. LadyWYT

    Quenching?

    Pretty much this. I've had pretty good luck with a handful of quenches in a row, boosting tool power by around 25%, durability around 20%. While I could push the numbers higher, I also don't want to spend that much time at my forge, nor break multiple items trying to get the "perfect" one. A weapon that can kill enemies with one less hit or a tool that can last longer/work a bit faster is more than sufficient for an upgrade.
  17. The percentile readings can be low, but the main thing to watch is the general reading description: Very Poor, Poor, etc. Typically it's best to dig at Decent or better, but if what you're looking for is rare or the best lead you have is Poor/Very Poor then it doesn't hurt to try digging at one of those readings. When it comes to bronze, you can also buy tin, bismuth, and zinc from Commodities traders, if you happen to be a few ore short of what you need. Panning bony soil can also yield gold/silver nuggets that can be turned into a black bronze tool or two.
  18. You mean like this?
  19. First off, welcome to the game and forums! Hens don't need a rooster in order to lay eggs. If you want to actually raise chickens though, you'll need a rooster to fertilize the eggs. To my knowledge, grain will attract any of the livestock animals. However, only large animals can eat from the large trough and only small animals from the small trough, so you'll need a trough of each size in order to attract/feed the animals in that area. I don't know the exact restrictions, however, I think the "Hens will lay one egg per week" thing you mentioned likely refers to how often a captured hen will lay without being fed. In my experience though, chickens won't lay eggs if you don't feed them, so if you want tasty eggs to eat then it's best to feed them at least once per day. If you want to hatch the eggs, then you'll need a rooster to fertilize the eggs and want to feed your chickens every other day or so once they start incubating the eggs. The hens will try to lay their eggs in henboxes when they can. However, if the henbox is too far away, or there aren't enough henboxes or space in the henboxes, they might just lay their eggs wherever is convenient.
  20. Not just that, but it's tough enough to hold up in the light temporal storms of the early game. The autoloot feature of the falx is incredibly useful here as well. The best loot the storms have to offer at this time, I think, is the rusty gears, since getting a handful of those early can be a huge advantage. Lack a source of lime? Buy some! Haven't found halite? Buy it! Lamellar is also lightweight enough that it won't slow you down that much or impose much of a hunger penalty. It also works quite well for ranged combat too. I will note in times past that I just skipped armor entirely until iron, since there wasn't really anything I needed to go fight. However, since there's now more stuff to do in the early game, and ironworking takes a bit more effort, I've started playing around with the earlier equipment. While it's still possible to rush to iron, the more relaxed approach has been a lot more fun.
  21. If you come back the next day, the fruit will be ripe. I don't know why it doesn't just ripen when the timer hits zero.
  22. Generally, it's best to wait until a stable release before trying to update old worlds, but even with stable releases it's a good idea to make a world backup anyway in case something goes wrong. This is also an option. You could also try updating an older world to see what happens, but make sure you back up the world first, as there is more likelihood of things going wrong on unstable game versions. Chunks that have already been generated won't contain new blocks like the new berry bushes. You'll need to either head to new areas of the world map to discover the new stuff, regenerate old chunks via command, or start a new world.
  23. Nah, don't have to get that fancy. Paint it with some glow-in-the-dark paint so that it "charges" in bright light(where the glow of a temporal gear isn't going to be that noticeable) and then glows softly at night. Complete with some sort of high gloss sealant for extra shine.
  24. I'm pretty sure this is already starting to happen, though I'm not sure that I would call it a complete collapse as much as I would markets just stabilizing. I don't think it's a situation unique to AI, as much as it is just a cycle that happens when new trends or technology appear. I think the key is to just be mindful of actions in the present. Kinda like playing Vintage Story, really. What you do at the start of the game sets you up for success or failure later on, so the further ahead you can plan and prepare the better the outcome tends to be. And much like winter, sometimes times are tough and you can't necessarily stop it from happening, but the effects can be heavily mitigated with some preparation.
  25. Seal them in a barrel of honey for a few days and you could have...gummy worms.
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